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DIY sump/ oil pan heater

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  • #16
    Pan heater passed its first test with flying colours. Filled with 2.6 litres of fresh Lidl oil. Turned heater on. Maximum temperature reached was 55 C. No discolouring of the oil hence to evidence of oil being burnt. Ambient temperature at time of test was 0 C.

    @ Thrumbleux: There was no vibration either!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by tolsen View Post

      @ Thrumbleux: There was no vibration either!
      On an CI inline triple ? Nah!.......

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      • #18
        In oil movement occurs due to the temperature difference.
        Heating resistance is inertial, oil is a kind of coolant so you will not get to warm up to hundreds of degrees resistance . Engine oil heated to 80 degrees but the heat source has the power to 30kW!
        Power Electrotechnical devices are cooled with oil. Power electrotechnical can be likened to a resistance ...
        As the heater, it is cast in cement and inserted into a metal tube .So, to what extent can affect a frequency so low?
        Answer may lie in marine engine preheater to preheat .I'll definitely have to mount the engine 8-710G3A General Motors and a valve (driven electro / manual) after system Tolsen-that for thermal comfort.

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        • #19
          I'm assuming that inside the metal tube, the element is encased in ceramic or some such. Maybe some support at intervals along the shaft may help. I really think this is one of those things that people can talk about for ever but until it's actually tested, no one can really be sure on the outcome. Hopefully Tolsen will keep us up to date with how well it is working over time.

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          • #20
            How did the heater that was fitted to canadian cars work? Was it a similar idea?

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            • #21
              For the last time, vibration won't be an issue.

              The Canadians use stick on oil pan heaters that tend to fall off, Webasto diesel heaters or Defa 2818 block heaters.


              Defa 2818.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Evilution View Post
                I really think this is one of those things that people can talk about for ever but until it's actually tested, no one can really be sure on the outcome. Hopefully Tolsen will keep us up to date with how well it is working over time.
                That's it in a nutshell. Got to admire TK for having the idea and giving it a go. I'm just too scared of it disintegrating and going through the oil pump and the grief it would cause me given my smart is my only method of transport in a rural area. So I suffer starting with cold oil while TK has his nicely warmed prior to setting off.

                It's typical of a thing I enjoy on car fora though - people bringing their ideas to the masses. One I picked up on lately is how Megasquirt can be used to replace the fuel system (worn carb(s), inefficient/unreliable early (eg Bosch D) injection systems) on older cars making them much more reliable and fuel efficient - typically the bugbear of an older (say 1960-70s) cars. I'd only thought of Megasquirt for tuning engines beyond the constraints of their own fuel system before.

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                • #23
                  I really work with something like this, the locomotive. MTBF is 10 years for some types of locomotives, at other - forever (EGM type).
                  I have never met heating resistance disintegrated, than damage (interrupted, with the short to ground, etc.).
                  Operating voltage heating element 12V is optimal because more than 12V can destroy computer system.
                  The 230V can destroy and element connection between the steering wheel and pedals and/or passenger.

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                  • #24
                    Now convert oil pan one with drain plug.
                    Drain plug will be summer magnet resistance and winter.
                    Hole for plug seat and component ,
                    1-DSCF1347.JPG
                    drain cap chair,
                    1-DSCF1349.JPG
                    drain plug (for summer)

                    1-DSCF1346.JPG

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                    • #25
                      Why summer and winter? You intend to fit heater element for winter? Why not leave it fitted permanently?

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                      • #26
                        For winter - screw cap with heating element .
                        For summer - screw cap with magnet .
                        Changing a resistance heating is undesirable - decreases reliability.
                        The heating element is sealed at the factory but can attach the screw plug.

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                        • #27
                          PTC heaters are much more reliable than resistance wire element heaters. No wire that may break. Self regulating and do not need any thermostat. Very good restance to vibration too? Not so with resistance wire heaters.

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                          • #28
                            PTC is an electronic device electronic .In most PTC applications are for inrush current.
                            PTC thermocouple in case TO220 - area too small for the given application! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-220
                            PTC thermocouple (Peltier element) are thermally conductive junctions with a yield of 50%. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling
                            Not resistant to:
                            - Contaminants (from the oil)
                            - Pressure (shock waves)
                            I mean resist less in Chinese style.
                            And most importantly, are heat pumps!
                            So ... resistance wire or resistance wire or resistance wire.
                            For 250W / 12V => ~ 7mmp and already using platband. What amount of energy is required for cracking them? You can hit the engine ground (how much you can, 10 times) and nothing happens resistance.
                            12V and tens of amperes (at least 30) can be obtained from an ATX SMPS. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply
                            Or a transformer UPS. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninter...e_power_supply
                            Do so and you do not have a headache .

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                            • #29
                              What you are saying makes no sense. My sump heater is PTC. Electric cabin heater elements in both the 450 and 451 Cdi's are PTC. Of course the element itself cannot be exposed to the oil, that is just the same as for an electric wire heater. My PTC sump heater is housed in a sealed stainless steel pipe.

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                              • #30
                                The Chinese do various things ...
                                I will try with a resistance wire Manufacturing.
                                The oil should not be in direct contact with it. Sorry, inrush current is a specific term.

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