2003 Smart won't start after engine rebuild

[Akura]

Hi,

I own a 2003 Fortwo (type 450) 0.6 turbo.

Last week I rebuilt the whole engine. I've changed all the internals parts (pistons, piston rings, valves, rod bearings, timing chain...), plus clutch, coils, spark plugs, filters, sensors, and so on...

Problem is, the engine turns over but won't fire up. All lights on the instrument cluster are normal. And there is no DTC codes raised by the ECU...

What I've checked so far :

- There are sparks on the spark plugs
- Fuel is coming to the rail AND into the cylinders (spark plugs are wet)
- Timing is good (and I think even with a tooth off, the engine would (badly) start)
- Checked and rechecked that clutch has been mounted properly (because of the gap in the flywheel for the CPS - crankshaft position sensor)
- CPS is brand new
- No error in the wiring
- All fuses are OK
- Compressions are good
- I guess ECU is OK since it responds to my Scantool, I even can read parameters in realtime (advance, air intake temp, throttle position, etc)

I surely miss something here but I'm totally stuck. There is fuel, there is spark, the camshaft moves : how a engine could not start with all that ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated !

[Thrumbleux]

Coils connected correctly?

Mine (following a rebuild) was a bit slow to start and when it did, not on all cylinders - though it sorted out quite quickly. The heating up of the centre branch of the inlet manifold led me to think an inlet valve had been a bit sticky.

[Akura]

Yes, coils are connected correctly. When I try to start, I even can see the firing sequence (1-2-3) with 3 spark plugs removed out of 6...

[Thrumbleux]

When I try to start, I even can see the firing sequence (1-2-3) with 3 spark plugs removed out of 6...

So long as that is not all you are relying on. They can be firing in sequence but still be displaced by 240 or 480 degrees - in which scenario they are all wrong!

Suspect you are looking at something affecting all cylinders or it'd be offering to fire at least one cylinder.

Fuel present - but how old is it? Old enough to have gone stale?

[tolsen]

I see you have replaced clutch. I suspect flywheel is incorrectly fitted on flywheel spider bringing ignition out by 120 degrees.

[tolsen]

Below image, complements of FQ101, shows spider plate for a petrol 450.

http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides...ch-change.html (never attempt their second method for changing clutch).

Spider plate has two formed dowels that index into holes drilled in both crank shaft and fly wheel.

[Akura]

I had a doubt about the flywheel so I checked it twice (i.e. removed and reinstalled the clutch two times !).

There is a location pin to prevent improper mounting of the clutch assembly and the flywheel as well, so how could I made a mistake here ?

But I do have the feeling that my problem is related to an out-of-phase ignition...

[tolsen]

You can check ignition timing with a strobe light. It is what we used in the olden days when engines had points and distributors.

[ossy]

Did you fitt the fuel pipes correct?

[Akura]

Well I guess I'll have to buy a strobe light. That's the only way to be sure of the timing phase.

About the fuel pipes I think I've hooked them up properly :

[Thrumbleux]

What's the thinking here? That the ignition is out of phase due to the flywheel spider or jumbled up low tension connections?

Can you shift all the low tension connections along by one cylinder (then by two if it still fails to run)?
Even if the fault is at the flywheel spider, if you can get it to run by juggling the low tension connections then you will be spared having to split the engine and gearbox again. A bodge I know, but....

[tolsen]

Some old timer nearby ought to have an ignition timing strobe light you can borrow.

[mottofreee]

It is assumed fuel pump function (plug wet), spark presence (directly observed), synchronized like?
Inversely related gasoline pipeline leading to not started!
Signs boot?

[Akura]

OK, I've checked the ignition timing today with a strobe light. It looks like the spark comes way before TDC of cylinder #1. Is that normal?

I removed the crankshaft position sensor in order to check the "target" on the flywheel without removing the gearbox again. When cylinder #1 is at TDC, the target is at ~10 degrees BTDC. Does someone know if this is correct?

I also had access to a MB Star computer, it said my intake air temperature sensor is dead (reads 8000 ohms which indicates a -30°C outside temperature, instead of 20°C). I've ordered a new sensor but I'm not sure it could prevent the engine to start...

[mottofreee]

CPS is necessary in place for starting!
Remove cover for changing the clutch and marks there the hexagon screw. Reading is difficult.
Check that you have the IAT signal socket from MEG (N3 / 10) - tells Star that wires ,correspondent in socket .