Turbo waste gate arm connector.

[Thrumbleux]

Hole in rod end eye is possibly 8 mm in diameter.

Just measured the ID of the circlip at 5mm. So with a groove turned 1.5mm deep in the small shaft it fits - suggests 8mm OD. Looking good!
The length though, will have to be within bounds of the available adjustment.

Everything is shoe horned in on a Renault. Mechanics working on the 453 just have to get used to poor access.

Yep, Renaults have been awkward to work on for a while now. The Scenic's air filter's lack of access and subsequent neglect is something of a legend - and not in a good way.

[tolsen]

From a reputable source.
ID of eye 7.6 mm.
Length from centre of eye 52 mm.
Refers to the Garrett rod end on eBay.

[Thrumbleux]

Chhers TK. I'll hopefully get a chance to measure it today.

[Buckster]

New???
Was that from a private seller with it surplus to requirements or a trader with more than one to sell? Link???

I got it here. Latvian seller but no issues.

[Thrumbleux]

Thanks Buckster. That's about one third of the price of main dealer asking price. Looks like it has the same rod termination as the one TK provided a link to. Which kinda keeps pointing me in the direction of getting just that part. Providing mine separates from its rod without any damage.

Do you remember how long delivery took?

[Buckster]

Took about a week.

[Thrumbleux]

Thanks Buckster.

[tolsen]

Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator Smart Fortwo / Smart Roadster (2003-) 45 Kw | eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk

China part. Cheap brittle plastics. Poor zinc plating. Won't last even a winter.

[Thrumbleux]

From a reputable source.
ID of eye 7.6 mm.
Length from centre of eye 52 mm.
Refers to the Garrett rod end on eBay.

The pin the eye fits over is 8.2mm. Length is OK but doubt that there's meat enough to enlarge the eye to 8.2mm. So, given the rod on mine is all but eaten through as well, and to effect any repair involves removal and by removing parts for access I render the car completely unusable unless I refit etc, etc (the TIK to compressor seal is always a PITA), I ordered one from Buckster's link. When it arrives, it'll be fitted without the faff of the car sitting around dismembered while I attempt a repair on something well past its best.
Meantimes, I think we've learned that your turnbuckle TK, is a no go.

[Buckster]

Oh no, mine must be faulty then as it still looks perfect after six months which included the winter, damn them!

China part. Cheap brittle plastics. Poor zinc plating. Won't last even a winter.

[Thrumbleux]

The pin the eye fits over is 8.2mm.
Meantimes, I think we've learned that your turnbuckle TK, is a no go.

Bit of a **** up on the measuring front.
Eye ID on new actuator is 7.2mm and fits the wastegate pin. Turnbuckle appears to be the same as your posted singular item TK. If the rest of my actuator wasn't in such a mess, it would have done I think.

[Thrumbleux]

I cannot see much rot judging by your photos. Where exactly is it broken?

You will now! IMG_4180.JPG
Minging!!!

At the same time as fitting the new actuator (cheers for the heads-up Buckster) I replaced some of the pipes to the actuator with ones long enough to now enable the TIK pipe to be swung out of the way without having to detach any of the pipes. Or rather, the real reason is that it allowed that the pipes be fitted and then the TIK be put in place (trying to connect everything up with the TIK in place is a PITA). What I used was 3.2 mm ID pipe - commonly known as 'diesel spill pipe'. Easily obtained it works a treat. Well worth getting some if you intend doing anything that involves TIK removal. I got mine from the link below and for 50p extra for first class delivery, it arrived the next day.
Thanks to all for the help. Just waiting for new E-clip and the job is finished.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-2mm-1-8-...3D310121191471

[Ocracoke]

Wow... that is rotten. Makes me paranoid about mine now.

[Thrumbleux]

Salt gives me high blood pressure!

Tolsen will confirm, up here in NE Scotland, winter plays havoc with our cars. The salt just eats them. But, leaving the road because of black ice doesn't do them much favours either.

[tolsen]

Cheap shite is Garret. Mine has a KKK turbo and its rod and adjuster mechanism is all stainless steel suitable for immersion in Scottish sea water.

[Thrumbleux]

E-clip arrived today so car is running again. And running well, plenty boosty.
But, EML was on to begin with and took four 'starts' to clear. Now gone but don't understand why it was on at all. It wasn't on when last run when it it covered 75 miles (with some stop/start before embarking on the final 50 miles) when the WG actuator failed. Any ideas? Gave it a bootful of throttle and it didn't overboost into limp mode (which I've previously had when cycle valve failed). No untoward noise other than a whistle on start up - which has been present all its life (when the WG closes after giving the cat as much heat as possible). Definitely no noises on driving.

While fitting the E-clip I noticed what I think is a hairline crack emanating from the WG boss - oh joy...

Found this >> https://youtu.be/taAF30GaVMk?t=169on the 'net. Play on mine is nowhere as bad as this - not even close - but it seems turbos can fail like this and not wreck the engine core. Am I just being paranoid.

Going to check play again (and try and get measurement). May phone local dealer and ask a price for manifold and turbo. Really though, engine rebuild, failed turbo and cracked manifolds at 76000 miles in the 21st century. Christ, British Leyland's products were more durable...