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  • #31
    As beneficial as heating the oil is to lubrication at start up some of that heat is lost to coolant via the oil cooler as it will heat the coolant until the temperatures balance. Unless of course you can pre-heat the coolant as well. Coolant is heated by heat that will be rejected anyway once operating temp is reached - albeit at a higher rate. Oil heating via its own fluid friction is at the expense of fuel and is a loss that reduces when operating temperature is reached with minimal rejection of heat to atmosphere. Pre-heating the bulk oil is advantageous though(despite heat loss to coolant) - just a PITA to accomplish.(I'm assuming there is no thermostat in the oil cooler to prevent oil flow through it at what would still be a moderate oil temp when pre-heated).
    At least with CDI, you aren't having to run rich as do the petrols.

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    • #32
      The antifreeze heating is made with resistors (either wire or PTC) with power kW, to compensate for losses. Also assume a recirculation pump.
      Do you want to warm up only the antifreeze in the engine block? This is a method of deforming the cylinder head.

      I opened the oil cooler and there was no thermostat but only the bypass valve for the oil filter.

      Non-intervention of antifreeze can be solved by inserting type NO electrovalve on the water-oil cooler antifreeze circuit.
      Electrovalve actuated 30 seconds when the engine is started only and the engine is cold.
      Solenoid automation is simple, a comparator and a thermistor - NTC or PTC and a monostable set to 30s. Analog variant involves an LM 311 or equivalent, and the digital version assumes an arduino module.
      You can use the antifreeze temperature sensor, but the comparator circuit gets complicated and the conflict with EDG is imminent (EDG to smart is mimosa).
      Why the antifreeze circuit?
      The original oil trace can only be closed at the risk of destroying the engine and the turbine - instantly at the turbo, the engine runs briefly until the internal melts. In the engine (including turbo) the bearings are hydrostatic,work whit oil pressure .

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      • #33
        Traditional DEFA block heaters are rated at 550 watt and there is no circulation pump.

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        • #34
          Leftfield......can you consider a small petrol fueled electric generator (any voltage) that can be slung under the car when needed (chain and padlock it for security) with sufficient power to drive any heating element of your choosing. (Play the generator's exhaust onto the sump's underside for extra heating!).

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          • #35
            DEFA is heated to 37C but in 180 minutes (550W). The Smart Engine starts well at 10C to 10C and the time is reduced to one hour.
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypaGYtDP-F4
            A small generator takes up a little space in the trunk, but the rope goes on, which is supposed to be up at 5 am, to get down to the parking lot to pull the string and then back to bed up to 6.
            Exhaust pipes are not guided under flammable fluid reservoirs.
            Firemen may appear if there is no one in the car...

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            • #36
              Today it snowed. I've had a long autumn, usually snow from mid-November ...
              That means the oil has cold-water cooling (by spraying) .
              Materials suitable for the isolation of oil baths I'm still looking for, I have not found.
              The closest is a glass fiber casing applied over the steel pan. Unfortunately, the resin that works with the fiber resists only up to 75C.
              There are few technical requirements for the material. Be a thermo-insulator, have mechanical stiffness, do not wet with water, resist temperature (120C +), resist organic solvents / oils and water / antifreeze.
              Do you know anything that is appropriate for you?

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              • #37
                Apply bitumen, the type that comes in 1 litre cans and is applied with special compressed air guns.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by mottofreee View Post
                  DEFA is heated to 37C but in 180 minutes (550W). The Smart Engine starts well at 10C to 10C and the time is reduced to one hour.
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypaGYtDP-F4
                  A small generator takes up a little space in the trunk, but the rope goes on, which is supposed to be up at 5 am, to get down to the parking lot to pull the string and then back to bed up to 6.
                  Exhaust pipes are not guided under flammable fluid reservoirs.
                  Firemen may appear if there is no one in the car...
                  The 550 Watt block heater raised coolant temperature from -14C to +23C hence only 37C increase in temperature in 3 hours. 550 Watt would be a considerable load on your battery which no doubt will end up completely drained out with no remaining power to crank engine over.

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                  • #39
                    Bitumen at 50 ... 60 degrees is soft. Temperatures a few dozen degrees above becomes semi liquid.
                    Once applied it is difficult to completely remove.
                    Please indicate what type of bitumen you refer to 1 liter (a link?)
                    The 550W DEFA resistance is not 12V, it can not be battery powered.

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                    • #40
                      The stuff I use is made by Tetrosyl. Product name is Tetra Schutz. It is a bitumen based under body seal.

                      Yes, I fully understand you cannot power a 230 volt rated heater by 12 volt and expect same heat. The thing though is you will probably need at heater of similar heat output as the 550 Watt DEFA to heat your engine. Powering heater by starter battery is unlikely to be successful.
                      Last edited by tolsen; 03-12-17, 01:05 AM.

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                      • #41
                        Tunnel pipes are easily modified to heat engine. My initial plan was to fit a 250 - 300 watt towel radiator heater to rear end of coolant return pipe. Concluded too risky as no end support for heater. Vibration could hole pipe.
                        New design. Will clamp heater elements to outside of coolant return pipe. Found some really cheap PTC heaters on eBay. Just under 6 for two. Spec: 130 watt at 220 volt. Size 100x21x5mm.
                        Will clamp two to return pipe hence 280 watt at 240 volt. Total heat will be 430 watt. (150 watt already fitted oil pan heater plus 280 watt coolant heater).

                        https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/110-220V-Al...72.m2749.l2649

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                        • #42
                          Outside diameter of the large tunnel pipes is 21.6mm. Will need a special aluminium profile to conduct heat from flat element to round pipe.
                          Very unlikely I can source that so need to make myself.


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                          • #43
                            Tunnel pipes:


                            Right is front, left is rear end.

                            When looking from rear:
                            Right pipe is return from radiator to engine.
                            Middle, the small diameter pipe, is flow to heater matrix.
                            Left pipe is flow to radiator.

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by mottofreee View Post
                              Bitumen at 50 ... 60 degrees is soft. Temperatures a few dozen degrees above becomes semi liquid.
                              Once applied it is difficult to completely remove.
                              Please indicate what type of bitumen you refer to 1 liter (a link?)
                              The 550W DEFA resistance is not 12V, it can not be battery powered.
                              Bitumen on my sump is still intact after two years of service:

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                              • #45
                                I received the previous days: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Portable-...ster/119617859
                                For direct heating the air can be used. When using this device 5 minutes before starting, it requires additional battery capacity of 5Ah - you will not feel the electrical consumption vs. the engine startup capability.
                                It has 2 power levels: 150W + 150W.
                                It follows from the tests that it is sufficient.
                                Here (in Ro) that bitumen has the generic name Autovapant
                                What thermal insulation now have those pipes (3 pcs)? PTC Elements How Will Voice Be Inserted? An aluminum block with PTC sides and a central hole through which the antifreeze passes?

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