Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Oil heater

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    Why run electric fan heater before starting engine? The Cdi has its own built in electric fan heater with more than 700 watt output.

    Comment


    • #47
      Before starting with 5 min. Order via Internet (WiFi) with https://www.banggood.com/ESP8266-5V-...r_warehouse=CN
      Unfortunately, the original Smart CDI heater works after starting the engine. However, my OEM does not work with the OE heater - cause: it does not get the enable signal from EDG.
      Oil heating with the device I imagined is very dangerous. The solution is an aluminum oil bath and the production of resistance directly on it.
      Heating the antifreeze at 220V with the elements shown by immersing them in pipes is a good but very dangerous procedure for the human body and the computer system of the car. I can generate a voltage higher than 48V - high probability. The question is not whether they will be, but when they will be.
      Electrical standards (from Ro) claim the use of 24V maximum voltage in wet environments (basements / bath / external garage).

      Comment


      • #48
        It is no longer clear what you intend to do or achieve.

        Comment


        • #49
          ​The purpose is to preheat the oil. With limited resources - battery accumulator, respectively.

          The electrical energy transformation in heat (by wire resistance) is 100%, and the electrical resistance device effience only depends on the thermal transfer factor.
          We have realized that placing the heating resistance inside the oil bath is virtually impossible - a particularly high and unacceptable fire risk. It must be located outside of the pan.
          The original Smart 450 oil pan is made of steel. Steel is an unsuitable heat guide for the chosen purpose. In this sense, I intend to cut off a window (about 4 "x 6") and to cover it welding an aluminum plate.

          Comment


          • #50
            Fit PTC towel rail heater like I did. Power using cheap China square wave inverter for battery operation. You then also have the option to power by 230 volt EU AC.

            PS. Wonder what will happen to the 230 volt AC now that the clowns are leaving.

            Comment


            • #51
              Any transformation is practically loss-making.
              Why maximize losses when the power supply is limited?
              I use 12Vcc directly without transformation.
              230V are obtained from a modified sinusoidal converter with subunit yield; in the case of China converter the yield is 50% to 70%.
              30 ... 50% are lost in the air in the form of heat at a temperature of 20 ... 40 degrees Celsius. Unusable.
              Another part of the losses are by rejection, that is, a part of the energy is returned to the battery; the battery does not accept this because the rejected voltage is too low. That energy is stuck on the connecting cables and ... it's warming up at practically unusable temperatures.
              Losses, losses. The energy reserve is limited, the losses must be limited if we want to start the engine afterwards.
              I have received wire ( https://www.bonanza.com/listings/5m-...Wire/435347935 ) for resistance and want a heating resistance I made because PTC are made in China .

              Comment


              • #52
                Square wave inverters are typically better than 85% efficient and pure sine wave inverters usually better than 90% efficient.
                A heater element that is immersed in the oil is 100% efficient. An element stuck to outside of oil pan may not be more than 50% efficient. There will also be lesser cable losses with an inverter solution provided inverter is placed in footwell adjacent to battery.

                Comment


                • #53
                  Theoretically, theoretical yield is over 90% but at some output power.
                  Practically, the power absorbed was 180W. The power of the consumer was 100W. It results in a practical yield of 100W / 180W = 0.5 (5).
                  I happened to find something related to this topic.
                  The computer source (SMPS unit) broke down and I replaced it. With the old source (noname, 75% yield) that computer consumes 90W and with the new source Corsair gold 80+) the computer consumes 120W. Under the same conditions.
                  These cases may happen at random; however, there is no lossless transformation. When resources are limited, losses must be eliminated - any loss is unacceptable. For example, I'm using Google Translate - I'm sure that it's not always what I want to say.

                  I want to buy an oil bath (I have wire, I have aluminum plate).
                  Is the OE Smart 450 (0.6 / 0.7 / CDI) equipped with the same type of oil bath?
                  I found out that the 450CDI oil bath is the same with the 451CDI oil bath.

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    The sumps look to be the same for 450 petrol & diesel plus also the 451 diesel.
                    https://www.smart-stuff.parts/engine...-roadster-4544

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      If you take an oilsump from a 451 CDI from year 2010 , it hold 1 liter more oil than a 450/452 Petrol/Diesel oilsump .
                      there is more space between bottum of oilsump and the oil suction tube.
                      maybe this give you more space/room to work in/on

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Are you referring to OE oil pan?
                        The AM parts I access have the same code from 450 / 0.6 (M160) to 451 2007-.
                        There somewhere aluminum oil pan. Now I can not find it anymore, it may not work anymore.
                        I'm looking for tomorrow when I try to buy one standard (steel).

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Larger oil pan means more oil to heat requiring more energy so not advisable for the purpose intended.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            The oil pan must be insulated anyway, and the heating resistance is under insulation.
                            Steel is a less conductive heat conductor than aluminum.
                            The steel oil pan should break (for resistance), the aluminum bath must not be.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              I think they got wrong part number for that pan. I’ll message Kate to tell her.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Originally posted by mottofreee View Post
                                Are you referring to OE oil pan?
                                The AM parts I access have the same code from 450 / 0.6 (M160) to 451 2007-.
                                There somewhere aluminum oil pan. Now I can not find it anymore, it may not work anymore.
                                I'm looking for tomorrow when I try to buy one standard (steel).
                                Yes an OEM oilsump from a 451 CDI from year 2010!!!!

                                Comment

                                Ad Widget

                                Collapse
                                Working...
                                X