Oil heater

[mottofreee]

Starting manually at OM660 is virtually impossible.
The starter motor has 1kW and features an axial reducer. That's why it's spinning the engine for so long.
On this principle is built
https://www.motorvip.ro/butuc-sateli...actor-u445-ro/

The ones described in #73 are standards.

[tolsen]

There are other ways. Simply just park at top of a hill.

[tolsen]

Just found an interesting paper published in March 1944 in the Engineering and Science Monthly written by Carlton H. Paul, titled Cold-Starting Aids for Automotive Diesel Engines.

Mr Paul concludes that application of heat is necessary for reliable starting.


http://calteches.library.caltech.edu/92/1/Paul.pdf

[Thrumbleux]

From a time before multigrade oils.
(At the time of the Rolls Royce Crecy's development with its twin oil films per cylinder (sleeve valves) there wasn't in existence a starter (of any form) man enough to cold start it).

[Thrumbleux]

There are other ways. Simply just park at top of a hill.

Or squirt some Easy Start down the (external) air inlet prior to cranking,
Or consider a designated 24V circuit for the starter motor - as used to be done for awkward (when hot) to start Cosworth BDAs back when they were the engine to have to win an international rally.

[tolsen]

Or squirt some Easy Start down the (external) air inlet prior to cranking,
Or consider a designated 24V circuit for the starter motor - as used to be done for awkward (when hot) to start Cosworth BDAs back when they were the engine to have to win an international rally.

Are we not dealing with a diesel in which case easy start should only be administered whilst cranking hence requiring two persons to start the engine?

[Thrumbleux]

Just a whiff left in the inlet system to help put some heat into the combustion chambers is what I had in mind. If it doesn't fire up first attempt, repeat until it does.
Alternatively, plumb in an aerosol with a remote control actuator - as per gas horns when not hand held.

[mottofreee]

On my engine there are no startup problems - it starts up every time.
Up to 10C startup is normally and as the temperature drops, it's getting harder but it starts.
The maximum wear is at the start of the cold engine.
For this reason, I want to make a device for easy starting.

Following the debate on the forum, I noticed that the chemical battery should be thermally insulated, eventually heated.
A ultracapacitor battery would be ideal for the intended purpose. It only stores energy and the response curve is relatively linear. For a 14V charging voltage after 8h it delivers 14V. The available voltage range is 10V.
Lead accumulator battery (chemical) has a nonlinear and limited response curve.
For a charging voltage of 14V the chemical battery after 8h delivers 13.2V. The voltage range available in this case is 2.7V!
I use this home-service home machine (32 miles and 10h in time); in the 8th hour I work, she has time to stay in charge ultracapacitors.

At ARO diesel there is a cold start system. It's made up of a glow plug over which the diesel in the air gallery drips. Failure to ceck of the system has generated more fires.

Starter motors for 12V systems are designed to operate with 10V voltage.

[tolsen]

Mine always starts too or I make it start. Heat is the only answer in my opinion. Easy start works but only for emergencies as causing undue engine wear.
Away from mains AC power I use Primus. Heat my tent with Primus as well when not using Petromax or Coleman lamp. Did you notice the 1944 paper recommends oil wick heater and engine covered in canvas from ground up? That will work.

[tolsen]

I also give battery a proper charge once or twice during winter with my special £8 Lidl battery charger. This helps prevent sulphation of battery and keep it in top condition.

[mottofreee]

Fast spin at first involves a freshly charged battery and thin oil.
- the battery is charged or kept warm (10C is sufficient) - this ensures maintaining the voltage in the load
- reducing oil viscosity by heating.

Traditional agricultural tractors in winter made a fire of wood directly under the engine. Otherwise it would not turn right unless you dropped the evening oil.
Another method was: put 15 l of diesel in a metal canister (20 l); canister with diesel oil put it on the stove 5 ... 10 min. Feeding directly from the canister and starting the hot diesel started. (if it was a good battery!)
But those times have come to an end ... now diesel engines start more easily.

[tolsen]

Starting below minus 16 C is still a problem especially if tanked up with wrong grade of fuel.
Summer diesel starts waxing out at this temperature and has the appearance of oatmeal porridge blocking both pipes and filters.

[tolsen]

It appears UK diesel is much worse since UK winter diesel has specified CFPP (cold filter clogging point) of only minus 15C. I therefore may have to consider adding an electric blanket covering my fuel filter. The alternative is of course staying indoors comforting myself on Queen Margot whisky.

[Thrumbleux]

Diesel is only chosen for reasons of (fuel) economy. It's other shortfalls therefor have to be endured. The sooner the blinkered automotive world turns its attention to developing a SI 2T suited to cars, the better for all.

[tolsen]

Diesel is only chosen for reasons of (fuel) economy. It's other shortfalls therefor have to be endured. The sooner the blinkered automotive world turns its attention to developing a SI 2T suited to cars, the better for all.

SI2T is what?

[Thrumbleux]

Spark Ignition 2 stroke.

[tolsen]

Aprilia 50RS Ditech

[tolsen]

Here we have a cheap solution to heating both fuel filter and washer tank fluid.

12 Volt DC 10 Watt waterproof flexible heating pad 60 x 60 mm costing Euro 1.79/ £1.59 each with free postage from a far away land.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112471124436

s-l1600.jpg

For fuel filter I intend to tie the heating pad on with twine or some rubber sleeve. I will avoid using any adhesive since fuel filter requires replacement now and then.

Heating pad is stated to be water proof so for washer tank I simply intend to drop pad into the tank.

Both will be wired such that they are only powered when ignition is on, perhaps with separate on off switch.

[mottofreee]

To ensure the flow of a 1,4 ... 2 liter engine, the resistance of 100W is used but at Smart I think it is sufficient 50W; 30W provided the filter is isolated. In the summer, diesel has to be cooled ... with a small radiator.
The Smart CDI has a fuel temperature sensor and I have no idea how it calculates correctly EDG injection times. It is most likely to result in an OM 660 with higher wheel power.
The winter will surely be more agile.
A clip that refers to mounting the resistance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5urpDNKj6Q
In the 1950s, the Soviets made a D35 bulldozer that started with the 'Drujba' engine (the so-called chain saws made in the USSR , all range); 2T engine start rope.