Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Intercooler replacement....

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Intercooler replacement....

    Is intercooler replacement better done with the drivetrain in its normal position or with it and the subframe lowered? Anything particularly to be aware of? I've only ever had the IC off when the entire drivetrain was removed and access was - somewhat obviously - better than when in situ.
    TIA.

  • #2
    Can be done with engine in place. Obviously rear cowl off. Pipes to turbo, intercooler fan off. Two flat blades to release the clips holding the intercooler to the plastic intercooler scoop.

    John

    Comment


    • #3
      Refitting intercooler scoop is the trickiest bit in my humble opinion. This is made a while lot easier if you remove the useless rear sway bar.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks guys.
        What needs to be removed for access - inner NS wheel arch?
        Is this job better done with subframe in situ (vs lowered)?

        Comment


        • #5
          So what do you actually want to remove? Reading you first post, just the intercooler? Then my first post answers the question. Somehow the question is now about the intercooler scoop, this is slightly tricky as there is push fit fastener part way down the inside of scoop. So once the intercooler has been removed, you can either reach the fastener from the top or from the bottom - neither is easy if you have big hands!
          There are obviously a couple more fasteners but they are easy by comparison and the wiring loom to the gearbox has to be undo and removed.

          Items needing to be removed,
          Engine bay cover
          Rear Cowl
          Turbo hoses (TIK and Turbo to Intercooler, Intercooler to Engine inlet.
          Intercooler Fan
          Intercooler
          Gearbox / Clutch wiring harness
          Intercooler Scoop

          Lowering the subframe using the lowering bolts would probably help, but when I did it, I didn't bother.

          John
          Last edited by heinkeljb; 09-07-18, 07:29 PM.

          Comment


          • Thrumbleux
            Thrumbleux commented
            Editing a comment
            Cheers H,
            My IC is leaking (pretty sure it is - oil on lower surface of gearbox from the front back and down on power) so it is it that needs replacing. Got a better feel of what needs removing for access now. Scoop is going to be the awkward bit - not least as mine is in several bits tywrapped together on account of snow damage.I suspect it'll be a job where I'm tempted to kidnap a child with small hands.....

        • #6
          Small petrol engine hence good access. Much harder on the diesel. Larger engine and egr valve blocks access to intercooler.

          Comment


          • Thrumbleux
            Thrumbleux commented
            Editing a comment
            So the diesel block is taller then?
            Being petrol though heightens the need to get this job done - for reasons of dust ingress off-boost.

          • mottofreee
            mottofreee commented
            Editing a comment
            Yes it is bigger and has EGR in addition.
            The M160 does not have EGR. Instead has flap which can be bypassed - anyway, it is caught with easily accessible screws.

        • #7
          Not the intercooler after all.
          Oil is red - but so is my engine oil though black enough now to suggest gearbox/ATF is the fluid. Oil level in gearbox is fine so not a catastrophic leak. But a leak nonetheless. Both (drain and fill) plugs are leak free as are the driveshaft seals. Oil coalesces around where the exhaust bolts to the gearbox and is getting blown around though previous oil on gearbox casing could have been from previous IC leak which was repaired some time ago.
          Any ideas as to where the gearbox could be leaking from? The only places(s) I can think of are the various sensors, actuators etc. Are these gearboxes leak prone? And if so, from where?

          Comment


          • #8
            Perhaps get some degreaser on the box and give it a pressure wash, once the old oil residue has been cleaned off you might be able to identify where the leak is coming from

            Comment


            • Thrumbleux
              Thrumbleux commented
              Editing a comment
              With a less dependent on electronics drivetrain I'd consider that but pressure washers and electronics are not to be mixed IMO.
              I wiped off the excess until dry so further leaks should be easier spotted. That said, typical journeys are 100+ miles which gives ample opportunity for the oil to be blown around. It doesn't leak sitting - only when being driven, so leak must be above oil level - gearbox or engine. The engine oil has since blackened (from red) so identifying the source should be easier. That it cleaned the bottom of the gearbox implies detergent and thus engine oil but the fresh red colour when the engine oil is already black suggests gearbox oil. The cam cover seal is weeping but on opposite side to gearbox. Time will tell...

          • #9
            The leakage may be at the clutch shaft.
            To remedy, ATF Additive (eg. https://products.liqui-moly.com/atf-additive-3.html ) thinks it's the quick solution. For the final repair, the cause must be determined.

            Comment


            • Thrumbleux
              Thrumbleux commented
              Editing a comment
              Could be gearbox input shaft I guess but the oil I use (pure paraffinic base) is particularly kind to seals.
              If oil is present in the clutch area I might expect clutch slip. Then again maybe not as ATF is designed to work with clutches.

          • #10
            With gear oil from the gearbox, clutch slipping is unlikely; the bleeding is behind the flywheel and the centrifugal force allows the gasket to remain dry.

            Comment


            • Thrumbleux
              Thrumbleux commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks.
              I'll know better by the colour of the oil next week (100+ mile trip) if it's engine or gearbox. If gearbox, your suggestion is the likely cause.

            • mottofreee
              mottofreee commented
              Editing a comment
              For radial play, a perfect seal is unlikely.
              The gearbox is fitted with rubber lip. The crankshaft is equipped with a PTFE lip.
              For radial play, a perfect seal is unlikely.
              The gearbox is fitted with rubber lip. The crankshaft is equipped with a PTFE lip.
              I know other causes for fat on the gearbox, namely:
              - rusty turbo oil leakage pipe
              - broken seal in rocker cover
              - high-pressure pump sealing (diesel only)
              - breathing valve torn oil bath (petrol only)
              - rusty oil pan.
              These are 450.

          Ad Widget

          Collapse
          Working...
          X