Hi all, I have a 451 08 passion fortwo. Dropped out of gear when coming to a stop and got the 3 lines on the dash. Did some research and figured it was the actuator. Took it off and removed the cover plate, it was rusty and dry as a bone with the motor pin that drives the plate snapped. So I bought a new actuator, figured I could fit it in the same position as the old one, however it arrived with a manufacturer note that it's uncalibrated, and the arm is fully extended. So tried the fix where you use the battery to retract the arm, however it does retract but when you take the power away it then pops back extended. Any ideas what to do next ? I love having a go myself before giving up and calling on a garage.
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With regards to the MB star for N.I. you mentioned elsewhere, have you read up MB Star on the Evilution site?
It's pricey, there are workarounds, but still pricey. -
Can you keep the power supply to it as you install it?Originally posted by Bruce_UK View Post
I have to say I know next to nothing about 451s. I had/have a 450 and the actuator could be mounted straight in and the adjustment was made via the slotted mounting bosses. Ideally a re-teach followed but they'd work straight out of the box. The 'adjustment' was to be able to twirl the pushrod between finger and thumb. Some insisted that it should be set with a certain preload but I managed without that complication.Comment
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From what I have read there seems a lot of info on the 450 actuator but not much on the 451. From the YouTube videos I have seen the arm is extended when in neutral. But when you remove the actuator the clutch lever pressure is then removed. So I am hoping that I can attach the actuator with arm extended with enough pressure to move the clutch lever so I can align the new actuator in the same position as the old was. Hoping that the car remembers it's gears (doubtful) when I turn ignition on the power goes to the actuator and sends the correct signal back and the arm moves in and out. If at that point it says nope I don't remember my gears.. I will have to get the MB Star man to come out and train the gears. In my head the theory is there but in reality it always seems different.Comment
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On my 450 when I changed the clutch actuator the gears didn't require a re-teach. If the 451 is the same you should be OK on that count.
That I suspect is going to be tough - moving the clutch lever with the actuator. Is there any way you can push the clutch lever to where it needs to be and restrain it with something that can then be removed eg, tywrap? I'm guessing there's no room for a screwdriver (or similar) and the actuator. Is there another access point? Could you consider drilling a hole to form one - enough to get a screwdriver in and lever the clutch lever to where you need it to be?Comment
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Simply fit new clutch actuator following Sachs service instruction. Diagnostics calibration of bite point is not really needed.
https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemed...4-11988-en.pdfComment
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Hi guys, I fitted the new greased up actuator this morning. I created a wiring loom to a battery with an on/off switch that pulls the arm in so it can be fitted. However, I still get the 3 bars on the dash when turning the ignition to position one and the EML light is still showing. I have scanned the codes with OBD2 and cleared them but the EML is still on and no new codes found. I have tried a teach method of ignition off, foot on brake, 30 seconds etc that i heard of but still no joy. So possibly looks like Star calibration needed etc. Tried to upload a .MP4 of the loom in action but failed so put it on YouTube
https://youtu.be/sCgV72EI9gQComment
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Update.. even though have 3 bars of death on the dash, when ignition is on and selecting reverse I can hear the actuator motor spinning and trying to engage but the arm is not pushing the clutch lever. Beginning to think that clutch has gone which caused the original actuator to break.Comment
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Might be worth removing the actuator and trying to gain access to the clutch operating arm and see if it's free or can be freed if it isn't.
Annoying, when you think the new part will effect a cure - and it doesn't...Comment
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#9.1Editing a commentUpdate... Okay, so i was about to take the actuator back off to test when I thought I would try unplugging the power to it, I turned the key to 1st position, pressed the brake and then put the gear lever in reverse, I could hear the gears moving and then the 3 bars of death disappeared and displayed an R, then I cycled through all the gears slowly and I have now got a N (happy days), and even better the car now starts and engine runs. However, when I put power back to the actuator and start the car in key position 1 I now get an N and then a hear a grinding buzz from the actuator and the car won't start in key position 2. So next is get the actuator off to re-test the new part to see if I have screwed it up and check the clutch fork for any give.
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How can I tell if the clutch is engaged or disengaged ? And how much movement should there be with the clutch fork ?Comment
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Update.. took the new actuator off, the clutch fork as about half inch loose free play back n forth but u abke to move further against any back pressure. I have disassembled the new actuator and the worm gear has shredded some of the teeth so the actual doesn't engage and the motor and worm gear just spins around freely. What's next ? I dont know.. is the clutch faulty ? Which is causing the issues with the actuator ?Comment
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Some initial free play at the actuator end of the clutch fork is to be expected. From there onwards it should be a heavy push against a strong spring until (usually) at the end of its travel (clutch fully released) it feels like it goes slightly 'over-centre' that is, it feels easier to hold there than it did to get it there. With a normal clutch at least, that's how it is.
Whether you have access enough to get enough force to test the above I don't know. Some leverage/mechanical advantage will likely be required. But, the constant destruction of actuators implies something amiss downstream of it. What that would be I can't say as I'm not familiar with these clutches. On a normal clutch, the first thing to look at would be the release bearing being seized on the gearbox input shaft and thus not sliding. Very possibly the same here. If you can get access to to the clutch fork to manipulate it, some penetrant (aimed at the release bearing's inner) and manual working of the clutch fork arm may free it. I'd try that before doing anything else.Comment
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I believe that the acutator can wear through the clutch press lever so you have to check, then you normally have to fit and recalibrate the thing? i did replace mine and it was bloody7 pants until i recalibrated it. i have a star so used thatComment
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