Turbo not boosting past 0

[Diddles]

Hi Guys,

Been lurking on here for awhile.

Picked up a roadster a year ago and never noticed an issue (first one iv driven though). Then i got into a friends one and noticed it was considerably faster on the boost. He had just bought it so i assumed it was mapped.

Then i recently installed the turbo pods and noticed my turbo wont boost past 0, even at 4-5 revs.

So i got under and had a look at the waste-gate E-clip, looks fine, had a tug on the arm and it moves, a lil stiff but nothing too bad.

So i'm at a loss, any advice on what my issue may be? the turbo is dumping the air on a gear change it even has the whoosh of the waste gate, although its fairly quite at there's no real pressure in it.

Help!!

[Ocracoke]

Hey there, welcome to the forum!

Have you checked the manifold to see if there is a crack in the housing? Are all the pipes tied in and secure?

[Thrumbleux]

Either a leak between the compressor outlet and the engine cylinder head (any of the seal/connectors, or possibly a damaged intercooler. They wear through but it would be quite a gash to dump all the boost) or something wrong on the management side. Actuator and all its plumbing and solenoids etc. Time to dig deep.

[137699]

Remove fuse 27. Wait 10 seconds then reinsert it.
I'd wager a fair amount your boost comes back.
If so, you need to replace the cycle valve - it will happen again.

BTW there are hardly any roadster owners on here - hence none of the above gave you this fix.

All the roadster owners are to be found over at www.theroadster.net

[Thrumbleux]

Remove fuse 27. Wait 10 seconds then reinsert it.
I'd wager a fair amount your boost comes back.
If so, you need to replace the cycle valve - it will happen again.

BTW there are hardly any roadster owners on here - hence none of the above gave you this fix.

All the roadster owners are to be found over at www.theroadster.net

Crossed my mind too (as it happened to me with my 450) but when in limp mode, does the EML not light up? - of which there's no mention in the OP's post.

[Diddles]

Wow,

Thanks for all the "speedy" reply's guys...sorry.

To add there are no warning light on in the dash, although the car does occasionally lose acceleration for maby half a second every once in awhile. Like a pulse.

I had a good look at the manifold while i was checking the actuator, looks old but no sign of cracks, although to my understanding theses can be quite difficult to spot for the novice. I will take a pic and upload it.

I'll have a go at pulling fuse 27 from the SAM when i get home. And see if that makes a difference, hopefully it is the cycle valve as a new turbo is £270 cheapest i can find.

[Thrumbleux]

[QUOTE=Diddles;n879147]

To add there are no warning light on in the dash, .

Does the EML illuminate on first turning ignition on - ie, is it still there?

I had a good look at the manifold while i was checking the actuator, looks old but no sign of cracks, although to my understanding theses can be quite difficult to spot for the novice. I will take a pic and upload it.

If it's an air leak then it will be drawing unfiltered air when the turbo isn't boosting. And the sound of air entering the leak should be audible. Such a massive leak would risk overspeeding the turbo to oblivion.

I'll have a go at pulling fuse 27 from the SAM when i get home. And see if that makes a difference, hopefully it is the cycle valve as a new turbo is £270 cheapest i can find.

If the diagnosis of cycle valve is correct (and it probably is) what will happen after removing/refitting fuse is that when next driven the car will pull like a train (overboost) then drop again into limp mode. Repeat to confirm and then replace cycle valve (after checking connections to it (electrical and pipes)).
From memory though, my EML lit up when this happened to me but it was a long time ago.

Turbo cartridge for circa £100. >> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smart-Fort...3D162264679697

[Diddles]

So, Pulled fuse 27 on my lunch break there, waited 10-15 sec then popped it back in a and took it for a spin.

Sadly no sign of any increased pull of pressure in the turbo.

I'll go back under and have a poke around for some loose pipes and a possible crack in the manifold when i'm home then pop up a pic.

I'm wondering seeing as it's been like this now for over a year has some long term damage been done to the turbo

[Thrumbleux]

There is something else you can try that should tell you if the wastegate is operating.
On cold start up for the first 45 seconds when the idles speed is high the wastegate is held open. Then the rpm drops and seconds later the wastegate closes. If you listen carefully, when the revs drop, the volume of noise at the tail pipe should slightly reduce as the wastegate opens. If you cannot detect this then chances are the wastegate isn't being closed when needed in which case work your way backwards - wastegate actuator, controlling (small bore) pipes etc. If there's a sensor malfunctioning then there'l be a code (though fuse removal deletes stored codes) but EML should be on. Is EML as it should be?

[137699]

Did you definitely pull fuse 27? Maybe try disconnecting and reconnecting the main battery.

[137699]

Crossed my mind too (as it happened to me with my 450) but when in limp mode, does the EML not light up? - of which there's no mention in the OP's post.

I've had 5 cycle valve failures - never yet had an EML light on.

[Thrumbleux]

My memory playing tricks on me. It was 9 years ago....

[Diddles]

No the EML is defiantly functioning as normal.

I'll try disconnecting the battery and pulling the fuse again this evening. I'll take her for a spin afterwards and listen out for any changes to the gate. Hopefully it's something as simple as the valve.

P.S

5 Valve failures! that's harsh, did you change them out yourself? I've been looking into it, seems like a pain, but doable all the same.

[Thrumbleux]

No the EML is defiantly functioning as normal.

137... will be right enough about the EML.

I'll try disconnecting the battery and pulling the fuse again this evening. I'll take her for a spin afterwards and listen out for any changes to the gate. Hopefully it's something as simple as the valve.

Just the battery will be enough. When reconnecting, I'm told it's better to reconnect in one swift move - no Morse Code.

5 Valve failures! that's harsh, did you change them out yourself? I've been looking into it, seems like a pain, but doable all the same.

Working there requires removing the TIK and the connecting small bore pipes have to re reconnected once TIK is back in place - a major PITA.
Do yourself a massive favour and buy 1 metre of diesel spill pipe. Then use it to lengthen the pipes. That way, you can have them all reconnected with the TIK in another county before refitting it. Makes the job 100 times easier.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-2mm-1-8-...-/310121191471

[Diddles]

OK, so disconnected the battery for a good 20 min and pulled fuse 27, no change.

I drove it with the engine compartment open behind me and can definitely hear the waste gate dumping air quite effectively.

So the problem looks to be storage of the pressure.

I took some pics of the manifold from under the car, i dont see cracks of any loose pipes, so i'm stumped.

I'm thinking a trip to the mechanic and a new turbo may be on the cards to fix this problem.

I'll see if i can upload the pics below.

[Diddles]

Turbo pic