Clutch fork

[tolsen]

Rust, grit and a rattling actuator rod due to lack of preload are the main causes for the fork socket wear I think.
I am not sure whether a brazing repaired socket will be too soft. There is certainly no visible wear at the end of my bronze tipped actuator rod. Might go ahead with TIG repairing my worn socket today if I only could get my ass in gear.

[Thrumbleux]

Rust, grit and a rattling actuator rod due to lack of preload are the main causes for the fork socket wear I think.

I'm more inclined to believe it's the duration that MEG tells the clutch actuator to operate for while the car is stationary and in gear (and the vibes at idle). In a manual car you'd just slip it into neutral and release the clutch. Which is what I do in my 450 but not sure MEG does the necessary.

I am not sure whether a brazing repaired socket will be too soft. There is certainly no visible wear at the end of my bronze tipped actuator rod. Might go ahead with TIG repairing my worn socket today if I only could get my ass in gear.

Surely there are brazing rods available with high bronze content?

[tolsen]

I'm more inclined to believe it's the duration that MEG tells the clutch actuator to operate for while the car is stationary and in gear (and the vibes at idle). In a manual car you'd just slip it into neutral and release the clutch. Which is what I do in my 450 but not sure MEG does the necessary.

The 450 slips into neutral too just like a manual. Rust, grit and woodpecker effect of a rattling un-preloaded actuator rod are the main causes for socket wear.

Surely there are brazing rods available with high bronze content?

You can but they are not cheap. The 1/2" bronze rod I used for tipping my actuator rod was acquired from a brazing rod used for retipping worn marine propeller blades. Just one of these bronze rods would buy you several scores of forks.

[Thrumbleux]

The 450 slips into neutral too just like a manual. Rust, grit and woodpecker effect of a rattling un-preloaded actuator rod are the main causes for socket wear.

But does it release the clutch or leave the actuator pushing on the fork?

You can but they are not cheap. The 1/2" bronze rod I used for tipping my actuator rod was acquired from a brazing rod used for retipping worn marine propeller blades. Just one of these bronze rods would buy you several scores of forks.

Never were (my father used to be the rep for Eutectic (if you've heard of them) and their stuff was expensive then. Low temp brazing rods were one of the products and the motor industry liked them as they could be used without panel distortion. Pre MIG and TIG - they payed the prices asked) and appear to be expensive still.
For this, I'd spend my money on a new fork and a good quality grease. Maintenance - no matter the cost - is still cheaper than remedy.
Funny though, you will recognise the differences in welding/brazing materials but will no doubt argue that all greases are the same.....

[tolsen]

But does it release the clutch or leave the actuator pushing on the fork?

Disengaged clutch is a static position. Actuator rod is still. Fork is still. Socket is further away from the elements hence less exposed. Socket won't suffer any wear in a static position.
Engaged clutch is worse for the socket. Much more exposed and will be subject to unnecessary wear if there is insufficient preload.

[mottofreee]

Without preload = enter dirt between fork and actuator rod pushers - leads to replacement fork.
With preload = low wear of the bearing pressure - acceptable wear .
However, dirt come but scarce - relatively equal wear of the bearing pressure.

[tolsen]

Proper preload is also beneficial for trust bearing longevity. It means trust bearing will always be spinning with engine. No Tory style stop and start which would be detrimental both to the bearing and to our economy.

[Evilution]

It's a shame that it's not a captive ball and socket at both ends, then there wouldn't be any slack.
A ball joint would be great, especially if you could rotate the actuator rod to add the preload.

[tolsen]

A second rubber gaiter to protect the exposed actuator rod and fork socket is really all that is required.

[tolsen]

Clutch fork socket TIG weld repaired with 316 stainless filler metal. Thickness in way of socket is now approximately 4 mm.


Release bearing cleaned and greased.


There was considerable wear where fork is resting on release bearing so that area also was weld repaired. Photo shows repair area before filing to size. Even more wear at mating area of release bearing (see above photo) so I intend to fit release bearing turned around 180 degrees. Will also turn release bearing guide tube by same amount.

[mottofreee]

The fork has a new life, but bearing?

[tolsen]

The fork has a new life, but bearing?

Bearing has been cleaned and greased. Now just like brand new. These bearings fail when they run dry. Lack of preload is worst condition for bearing and the whole mechanism. Rattle causes accelerated wear.