2 cylinder Suprex - warning sign?

[bob-in-dav]

If you look at how fine the pitch is on the thread, it's gonna get very tight very easily.

Getting them out, I use a bar about 1 metre long - same going in but never found the need to go much beyond the torque setting.

Never known one to come loose yet!

[tolsen]

What length of leverage are you using for the 90deg?

Overall length of my 3/4" ratchet handle measured from centre of square drive is 470 mm.

[tolsen]

Those that don't eat enough porridge can always attach a scaffolding pole.

[Thrumbleux]

Thanks guys.

same going in but never found the need to go much beyond the torque setting.

Never known one to come loose yet!

I've got it to 140Nm plus approx 35 degrees but the engine (out of the car) is hard to restrain (though I've a method now to hold it) and the 17mm socket restraining the flywheel keeps jumping (I need to find a way of better securing it). Today hopefully, I'll get it a bit tighter,

[bob-in-dav]

Tha will be fine !

[Thrumbleux]

Oh well, the additional 30 degrees I managed seals the deal!
That, and ensuring the pump drive sprocket's mating surfaces were completely oil free should see it works OK.

[tolsen]

You are 25 degrees short so should eat more porridge.

[Thrumbleux]

Eat any porridge!
My lack of weight does go against me in some tasks. Fortunately, 140Nm + 90 deg isn't an everyday occurrence. That's it for the heavy stuff though until I have to manhandle the engine and box from the garage to the car.

[Thrumbleux]

The two pipes at the end of the fuel rail - transposable?

[bob-in-dav]

Yep - either way works - whichever way fits most comfortably round the dipstick.

Sounds like you're getting close a fire up?

How have you primed the lubrication system?

[tolsen]

Is there not a flow and a return?

[bob-in-dav]

Yes but they just pressurise the fuel rail and bleed back - either way round works as far as I know.

Ref lubrication priming - with engine on floor and standing on the front pulley or supported in a suitable way, locate the large allen headed cap behind the flywheel spider and remove it.

This cap plugs the end of the main oil gallery that feeds the main bearings, big ends and subsequently everything else.

Squirt or pour oil in here till full and rotate the crankshaft several times - level should drop as the drillings in the crank fill and feed those nice new shells - keep topping up till level stops falling wth rotation andcreplce cap (with some sealer or loctite f you like).

This will guarantee proper protection while cranking the engine on the starter as it takes quite a time for the pump to suck up from the sump and push through the whole system and filter etc

Probably too late to be telling you this - but if your engine rattles and knocks out its big ends - you'll know how to do it right next time!

[tolsen]

I have never bothered to look into how fuel flows in a petrol 450 so is rather ignorant on that issue.

For priming lube oil circuit I prefer removing oil pressure switch and pump clean oil in there under pressure using a hand pump.

[bob-in-dav]

I have never bothered to look into how fuel flows in a petrol 450 so is rather ignorant on that issue.

For priming lube oil circuit I prefer removing oil pressure switch and pump clean oil in there under pressure using a hand pump.

Yeh ok - but in this case, we're talking about an engine which has had the main bearings and shells replaced with engine out of the car.
That is very likely to mean that the oil drillngs from the main bearings through the crankshft to the big ends will be devoid of any oil at all untiĺ that main gallery fills up again.

What you describe is good way to prime the pump - all of which will help in sucking the oil up 4 to 5 inches of pickup pipe, mesh and galleries before it starts to pump it through the empty filter etc.

[Thrumbleux]

Thanks guys.
I think I can assign the fuel pipes to their original positions - but if not,,,,

Plan to prime oil galleries is removal of fuel pump fuse and crank till pressure puts the dash light off.All bearing journals (crank and cam) were lubed on assembly so not totally dry.

Yep, close to firing it up. Should have been yesterday but I had such aggro getting the engine and box the 10 feet or so from the garage to the car across soft ground with small stones and slightly uphill. By the time I'd got the engine in situ it was too dark to see where the mounting bolts go. Today,

[tolsen]

Front pipe is return. Rear pipe is flow from pump and should be connected to pipe that comes from fuel filter.

[Thrumbleux]

I need to have another look but,,,,,both pipes tee into one. Both have what may be check valves - orientated the same. I could blow through neither (from fuel rail end) but my attention was elsewhere. I cut the pipes (rather than fiddle with the clips) on the day due to time constraints I'm hoping the angle of the cuts lets me identify which is which! ,

edit PS
Check valved pipes aren't fuel rail pipe - TIK?
The FR pipes I can match from the cut angle.