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I've had a PM stating this may be the part number for the bare cam chain from Mercedes / Smart:- Q0007681V001000000. Can anybody confirm this, and a price would be nice too
yes, i think ours came from merc direct (so to speak) you'll probably need to order it from your local stealer as i wouldn't think they'd have them in stock (i could be wrong!) then take yer time and it'll be fine
Yes it comes with a link so DON'T order another as it'll be in your toolbox forevermore and a day!
No, just a normal hammer / metal block and a ball pein (sp) hammer thats all merc mechanics use and we used and it's good as gold!
Thanks for the information, much appreciated
I've done a fair few motorcycle cam chain replacements in my time, so it sounds just a variation on a theme then, just make sure I don't over peen the link to cause it to tighten up
Is this cam chain (with the link) an O.E part from any of the main Smart Car parts suppliers ?
there is not really any definative answer , if you chain is rattly / noisy, it could be time to change it (or use slightly thicker oil) it's not that hard to do, and the guides and tensioner only need to be replaced if they are knackered....
Fudge and me have just done jills car (my missis) and that had done 105000 and the chain was slack enough it met in the middle of the engine, so we fitted a new one when we rebuilt the engine but the guides and rails where fine so they where checked and refited, and now the engine is lovely and quite......
^^^ What he says, and assuming your Clamping Rail (Tensioner Side) And Guide are ok you can change the chain from the top of the head, we did, I split the chain on on the car, joined the new chain and wound the engine over until the new chain appeared, we then joined the chain there.
Cheers Guys.
Is the new cam chain supplied with a soft link, and do you need any special tools to rivet / peen the link ?
The chain definately has some wear, as I could lift it slightly off the cam sprocket, at the highest point, and it seems silly not to replace this now that the head has been removed, as the car has covered around 75000 miles.
^^^ What he says, and assuming your Clamping Rail (Tensioner Side) And Guide are ok you can change the chain from the top of the head, we did, I split the chain on on the car, joined the new chain and wound the engine over until the new chain appeared, we then joined the chain there.
there is not really any definative answer , if you chain is rattly / noisy, it could be time to change it (or use slightly thicker oil) it's not that hard to do, and the guides and tensioner only need to be replaced if they are knackered....
Fudge and me have just done jills car (my missis) and that had done 105000 and the chain was slack enough it met in the middle of the engine, so we fitted a new one when we rebuilt the engine but the guides and rails where fine so they where checked and refited, and now the engine is lovely and quite......
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