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ALTERNATIVE FOR REAR SPEAKER

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  • #16
    Honestly I would not do the method you speak of. You could fit these That gives you the chance to have 16cm speakers. If you got components you could mount the tweeter pods where you are thinking now. Sound will be massively better too. I have a slim line sub in my boot which really finishes the job off and am actually like most audiophiles enjoying the stereo (not quadrophonic) sound stage

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    • #17
      right hand smarts have net door pockets , i have fitted speakers in the doors using the plastic door pockets from the older left hand smarts , cut the holes then covered them with leatherette , then bolt the speaker in , does a neat job , just screws back in screw holes already there

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      • #18
        I like the idea of the flat sub. Might consider that as next step as long as it doesn't require separate 12v power supply. For the doors, it is a good suggestion but prefer not to do away with the actual leather pockets already installed. I have been concerned that the seats might reduce the intended benefit with the speakers in the rear of the door. However, have been considering these for mounting on the interior side of the storage shelf http://www.flattspeakers.com/. Do you have any experience with them?

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        • #19
          Since the base bins are already installed it would be good if I could avoid removing the dash for the tweeters. It looks like you can screw the base of the tweeters from the top and maybe snake the wires through. Has anyone tried it?

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          • #20
            Hmm those flat speakers...... I would stay clear as they have very little power handling. You could fit the tweeters as you say but you will need the stumpiest screw driver ever and leverage/force will be hard to apply if your using the stock tweeter housings. If you have after market tweeters they could mount over the vent holes I guess. Removing the dash is honestly very very easy and all the how to's make it sound a tad harder than it is IMHO. Just a refresh also about cross overs. Your head unit probably doesn't do this, if you havnt got tweeters with your previous owner upgraded speakers then you know where I'm going with this. It took me under 3 hours to remove install and refit everything as a smart car novice.

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            • #21
              Bill, as always very helpful. I enjoy DIY, particularly if it is a unique, cost effective solution to a problem. I usually avoid pre packaged solutions but sometimes it is the most cost effective and simplest in the long run. I am also a rather slow worker, but careful and very neat. The difficulty with this project is my work space is limiting and not being the original owner I am unsure what may already have been done. As I have previously mentioned, with the car so basic and no tweeters, I was shocked to discover that base bins had been installed but have no idea if the speakers are the standard Smart upgrade or aftermarket. I hate to take it apart without the componets on hand but since the sound is significanly better since the new head unit I hesitate to start the work and discover I did not need them.

              I am a long term Cabrio driver and my experience is that there is a limit to how much you can improve the sound for open top driving and forget about a phone. On the other hand I would like to do something more. Also, you right, I will need to get crossovers as well. All of this is leading me to considering options. Your point of aftermarket tweeters is a thought. I am also wondering if aftermarket 13cm coax to replace whatever is currently installed (assuming what's there isn't coax), or to first focus on the alternative rear speakers and see how it sounds.

              Thanks for taking all the time to exchange views with me.

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              • #22
                For anyone who has done this and can offer pointers...I am beginning to lean away from anything in the dash. I am thinking (adding crossovers of course), putting aftermarket tweeters in the doors, there should be room in the upper front corner and black would match the window switch. Then either

                1 - cut a wooden form for the rear storage compartment, glueing it to the existing cver but facing passengers not up and installing two 10cm coax speakers with easily removable wiring so as not to loose flexiblity of the storage area, or...

                2 - Use two free standing coax marine speakers, usualy horn shapped and meant to be attached to a rail, and attach those to a stonger rod holding the rear part of the cover aimed to the passengers and with easily removeable wiring. Either that or attaching them to the upper part of the seat belt cover, which I may need to make more ridged somehow to avoid fibration issues.

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                • #23
                  my door speakers on my 450



                  tony [ oldgit ]

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                  • #24
                    This is what I done, IMO the best solution, no worrying about getting speaker wire in the doors and the added bonus of the music coming from one area, not mids down low and highs at the top. I have been into car audio for about 20 years so I know what I like and what works for me.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #25
                      My final decision was to go with 4" coax speakers for the doors wired to the rear channel of the Sony head unit keeping the Smart front base bins and speaks (no tweeters). Afterall the Evilution explanation and pictures seemed easy enough. It was a simple job to cut the wholes with the hole cutter attachment for my drill, an exact fit. With a debth of about 4.5cm there was lots of room to avoid the window motor and glass. The wiring just around the perimeter of the door up through the existing wire channel. The existing door insullation easly kept the wire away from any moving parts. All as Evilution described to that point.

                      I tried to follow the insturction for wiring the right speaker down into the battery area but after taking it all apart, honestly could not find the path as described Evilution, plus it seemed clear that would not work for the driver's door. After searching entry to passenger compartment, including drilling new wholes I decided a visit to my dealer might be in order. The result was it would be necessary to take off the front and go through the firewall with the other wiring. I knew taking off the front was not difficult but was unsure what else would be required so decided better to assist with the dealer taking the lead

                      It was the right choice. It was necessary to remove other componets, including the left headlight, behind which was the route into the drivers side for both speakers. While all of this not particularly difficult it was necessary to realign the headlights.

                      There is a definiate improvement in sound and the fuller surround sound I was seeking. I confess with all my effort in choice of speaker, the Vibe 4" I chose does not perform as well installed as it did in the showroom, but still a worthwhile effort. Perhaps I will eventually replace them for a slightly larger or oval pair. We will see. If I had reason to do another door installation, I would most likely do it on my own, it really wasn't that difficult, you just needed a reasonable place to work and the patience.

                      Was not able to take pictures of the entire process but these are of the end result.
                      Attached Files

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