So you made a new pattern part. Unlikely weight of that small part is 50 grams out. Its total weight is most likely less that 50 grams.
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Single plane static balancing? Can't see any accelerometer in your setup.Comment
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Balancing of rotating machinery using your lateral acceleration (yaw) sensor to measure vibration:
http://www.smartz.co.uk/showthread.php?18576Last edited by tolsen; 02-04-15, 08:09 PM.Comment
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In competitions motorcycle , the best weel balancing is done manually.
Balancing method presented (in smartz.co) is interesting. Where the sensor is found Smart 450 MC01?
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MC01 does not have ESP. Removing the lower shield is a procedure difficult (for me) for remove the sensor, but I have to do an endoscopy.Comment
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You mean plastic under trays? Yes the 450 must by jacked up to remove those. Yaw sensor on non ESP models are prone to failure due to the potting compound on sensor cracking up allowing water into its guts. Best to get one from a car breaker complete with plug and short length of cable. You can then start your own balancing business.Comment
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Yes ,plastic under trays.
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Looking at last photo in post #13, it looks like there is too much preload on diaphragm. Evident by the fingers being too near boss of friction disc. On my clutch the fingers sit on average 17.3 mm above the boss.
Wood be nice to learn position of fingers relative to boss on a brand new clutch.
Perhaps better to assemble clutch without preloading the diaphragm.. One can then observe fingers and measure their distance from boss of friction disc when pushing pressure plate housing into flywheel. Using a screw press or a large vice may also be advisable as one then has control over the stroke.Comment
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I noticed that too little biased but I have pleasant memories disassembly ... yet remain so.Comment
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I first opened out and reassembled my clutch in 2007 when my brain windings were working faster. I then measured position of diaphragm fingers relative to both pressure plate housing and boss of friction disc but never posted this info and have of course lost the piece of paper where I scribbled it all down. When pushing pressure plate housing into flywheel, I had fitted four 3.2 mm short equal length welding rods into the groove of fly wheel to work as stops. The clutch was fine ever since so I know that method works. There is a post about it on the onsmart forum but links cannot be made to it because the forum owner has turned off https.Comment
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Unfortunately I was directed by the instructions on fq101 which are incomplecte. Those concerns only the clutches of petrol Smart. The principles are the same as those of diesel but 'the practice killing us' .
We proceeded to thinning clutch linings (from 3.2mm to 2mm).
The first attempt to use aluminum rivets have not appropriate here.
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Finally I used tubular steel rivets and went well.
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I'll try a slight stress relieving by heating.Last edited by mottofreee; 05-04-15, 09:12 AM.Comment
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How are you getting on with our clutch? I got mine assembled, fitted in the engine and it works fine. My Smart passed its annual safety test yesterday with flying colours. The rebuilt clutch is particularly smooth.
The only problem I had was the engine did not start. It cranked normally but made no attempt to fire. When connecting WinStar I noticed engine did not synchronise. I suspected low compression since engine had not run for almost a year. That was quickly cured with a blast of Lidl penetration fluid in the inlet manifold. Engine then fired up instantly.Comment
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During transport was shook / hit the flywheel.
I want to check her balance for it started building a balancing machine , near Smart.
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Off - we are Orthodox (days off - miniholiday, wine, beer, brandy, lamb, red eggs - Easter).Comment
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