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2000 Smart City-Coupe (450) 0.8 CDI gearbox problem

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  • #16
    I put clutch actuator from another Smart today. But the problem remains the same. So I'm thinking that it could be a problem with electricity, or the clutch itself. What do you think? Actually I'll try to check electricity first, because I think it's easier than taking off a gearbox...

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    • #17
      The wiring is prone to chaffing - especially where it passes close to the intercooler. The air scoop there eats through the wiring. Well worth checking before going any further. What I've noticed on the forums is that a clutch problem usually presents itself noisily - usually because some part - like a strap - has broken.
      A clue (sometimes) to a wiring fault (if it is a short circuit) is the problem is worse in wet weather. Broken wires sometimes need testing with a lamp (to create a current that is greater than a meter creates - catches out remaining the single strand).
      Last edited by Thrumbleux; 18-05-17, 08:26 PM.

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      • #18
        Best to check transmission wiring harness first.


        Above image gives pinout of wiring between ecu engine harness plug and the various plugs on transmission. I prefer using a 21 watt test lamp, a 12 volt battery and multimeter set to read current. Simply using multimeter to check continuity is not always conclusive as a wire will test out ok if only a single strand remains.

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        • #19
          Try to source some hydrochloric acid solution 9 to 12% to clean black oxidised copper strands into bright shiny copper that solder will wet. HCl solution is commonly available as brick cleaner from builder merchants.

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          • #20
            Example of black oxidised copper and same after a few seconds immersion in HCl solution:


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            • Thrumbleux
              Thrumbleux commented
              Editing a comment
              Tolsen's acid cleaning method as good as saved my rear harness - recommended!

          • #21
            1) Has the N3 / 9 computer been rewritten (tuning)?
            N3/9 alias EDG , controls gear box and injection .
            2 )Check the wiring .
            3) Use MB Star necessarily the . If MB Star don't indicate problems ,wiring or rewriten EDG is cause .
            4) Change earth strap by engine !
            http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides...ne-earth-strap
            Many problems generate one earth strap deteriored .

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            • #22
              I drove with my smart a bit this weekend. And it seems, that it forgets all the gears and ctuch positions after engine off. And when I start to drive, it releases the clutch very roughly. But after a first gear change, it starts to drive perfectly. And I drove a lot this weekend like this. But, when I switch the engine off, the problem is the same... Also I checked the cables as much as I could, but I didn't find any bad cable... Maybe the diagnostic would help me? Maybe I have to reprogram a gearbox and clutch with MB star?
              I don't know about the tunings, because I bought this car 1 month ago.
              Last edited by arnasmic; 21-05-17, 06:00 PM.

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              • #23
                And there is a lot of noises when I just turn the ignition on and switch through the gears. It's like in those movies which I uploaded earlier. Sometimes when I switch the engine on, I can't turn to D or R, because when I do that, the car starts pulsing. It feels like a transmission motor tries to select gear but it stuck and can't to spin. But in this case, I turn the engine off, and turn the ignition on. And then I go through the gears with engine off. And after that I turn the engine on, and it let's me to select gear. But, as I said, clutch realeasing way too fast at first. But after first gear changes it starts to drive perfectly. Then I could stop a car and start to drive again smoothly. Untill I turn the engine off... Then the same problem comes up again.

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                • #24
                  Clutch releasing with a bang is either stiff clutch actuator or bad wiring to any of clutch actuator pins 1,2, 4 & 5. These are the thin signal wires.
                  Use your eyes and look for chafing marks. A typical area on the diesel is at end of outer protective sleeve just before the connector.
                  I bet in your case it is wiring, especially if symptoms are same with two clutch actuators.

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                  • #25
                    But why only first clutch release is rough? If that problem is in wires, i think that it should release the clutch roughly all the time. Isn't it?

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                    • #26
                      Clutch release when taking off will be rough. Clutch release when car is on the move may still be rough but felt as smooth by driver. Reason: Engine control unit matches engine speed for each gear shift so will be felt as smooth although clutch is still being released rather uncontrolled.

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                      • #27
                        Hmmm. I definetly check those cables this evening. But why only first taking off is rough? After the first taking off I can stop the car and take off again smoothly.

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                        • #28
                          Originally posted by arnasmic View Post
                          Hmmm. I definetly check those cables this evening. But why only first taking off is rough? After the first taking off I can stop the car and take off again smoothly.

                          There is I suppose an outside chance that the clutch plate has been contaminated with some fluid and is grabby when cold but once heated up a bit improves. Any signs of fluid in the area?
                          Or it's a bit sticky on its spline.Serious distortion of the clutch plates (caused by overheating) can make them difficult to release.
                          Do you know if the car sat for any length of time before you got it? Clutch plates can seize to the flywheel if left sitting too long but once they are freed they are OK.

                          I'd still suspect wiring before any of the above though.

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                          • #29
                            Could you please shoot a video similar to mine. Engage forward or reverse and operate accelerator so clutch will start to bite but not sufficient for car to move forward. Repeat several times.

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                            • #30
                              This evening I've checked with a lamp all the cables going from ECU to clutch actuator, transmission motor, rpm sensor, gear position sensor and all cables were good. I've also checked another ECU connection, where ECU +12V inputs is. MCC SMART - MEG 1.X ECU - PINOUT

                              Basic connection - pinout for Bosch MEG1.x Engine Control Units, used in SMART cars.
                              114 : +12V ( term.30 )
                              121 : GND ( term. 31 )
                              103 : +12V ( term. 15 )
                              108 : +12V ( term. 15 )
                              110 : K Line

                              But I couln't find +12V on 114 and 121 connections. I could only find about 4V I guess on a 103 and 121 or it could be on a 121 and 108. I couldn't remember. But I think that something wrong here. I've tried to meter both ways, with egnition on and off. Maybe I can't to meter these connections without ECU? Or maybe I'm doing something wrong?

                              Sorry I can't to film a video today. I put my car in A(Automatic) but my car doesn't move. Only revs come up, but it doesn't move. As I could see under a car, that clutch doesn't push as much as it should...

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