Oil heater

[Thrumbleux]

As beneficial as heating the oil is to lubrication at start up some of that heat is lost to coolant via the oil cooler as it will heat the coolant until the temperatures balance. Unless of course you can pre-heat the coolant as well. Coolant is heated by heat that will be rejected anyway once operating temp is reached - albeit at a higher rate. Oil heating via its own fluid friction is at the expense of fuel and is a loss that reduces when operating temperature is reached with minimal rejection of heat to atmosphere. Pre-heating the bulk oil is advantageous though(despite heat loss to coolant) - just a PITA to accomplish.(I'm assuming there is no thermostat in the oil cooler to prevent oil flow through it at what would still be a moderate oil temp when pre-heated).
At least with CDI, you aren't having to run rich as do the petrols.

[tolsen]

Oil is contained in galleries and moving parts. Just heating oil in pan is not enough. I think you really need to take the chill out of the whole engine. My 150 Watt oil pan heater keeps oil in pan hot enough and also heats lower part of engine. I plan to add another heater to heat coolant. Parts are ready including PTC heater element.

[Thrumbleux]

By preheating the oil, it only gets better lubrication during the first moments of operation.

Not so.
It will take approximately double the time for the oil to reach full temperature compared to the coolant. Any improvement in heating the oil will extend beyond immediate start up as the oil's viscosity will be lower at any point in time. And it is pumping cold viscous oil that energy (from the crankshaft) is squandered.

This dissertation led me to the decision to increase the engine speed from 850rpm to 900rpm.
Anyway ,if outside is -10C the engine speed in the first 10s is up to 500rpm ... 700rpm .

See above. Higher rpm will further increase the losses incurred in pumping cold viscous oil.

Another measure would be to isolate the engine compartment by fitting a shield hanging by De Dion - most of the other cars have it in the factory, I think all the turbodiesel have, on gasoline we had cars with or without.
That shield to Smart car minimizes heat loss. Facilitates reaching operating temperatures in shorter time.
On some VW / Skoda / Audi / Seat models, the shields have no oil drain hole .
In conclusion:
1) to lift the reluctance
2) motor shield

Undershields are for undercar aerodynamics only, and have more effect on front engined cars where the air would otherwise be turbulent over the entire car's length.
Their insulating properties are minimal.

Incidentally, much of the coolant's heat is from where the exhaust gases pass through the cylinder head. Engine hot or cold, that is heat that cannot be harnessed. The exhaust gasses did all their useful work during the expansion stroke before the exhaust valve opened. Be as well use that heat that is wasted whatever the engine's temperature to raise the coolant's temperature. Pre-heating the oil will be much more advantageous.

[tolsen]

Making and fitting an effective motor shield will be tricky.

[mottofreee]

For the effective electrical heating of the antifreeze is too little 80W.

The lost power in the form of heat at OM660 is 50% and 25% goes into antifreez in the form of heat.
At the minimum operating speed (850 rpm), the engine delivers 5 ... 10kW mechanical power and loses another 5 ... 10kW in the form of heat.
At the beginning of the engine operation, the temperature is equal to the ambient temperature and the mechanical efficiency is low. As it heats up, the mechanical efficiency increases and is as high as possible at operating temperature.
By preheating the oil, it only gets better lubrication during the first moments of operation.

This dissertation led me to the decision to increase the engine speed from 850rpm to 900rpm.
Anyway ,if outside is -10C the engine speed in the first 10s is up to 500rpm ... 700rpm .

Another measure would be to isolate the engine compartment by fitting a shield hanging by De Dion - most of the other cars have it in the factory, I think all the turbodiesel have, on gasoline we had cars with or without.
That shield to Smart car minimizes heat loss. Facilitates reaching operating temperatures in shorter time.
On some VW / Skoda / Audi / Seat models, the shields have no oil drain hole .
In conclusion:
1) to lift the reluctance
2) motor shield

[tolsen]

Tunnel pipes are removed from the front. Radiator must come off for access.
80 Watts should take the chill out of the engine if left on for an hour or two.

[tolsen]

Here is a 12v 80w flexible heating element.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Long-Thin-Silicone-Waterproof-Heating-Elements-1-Metre-12V-40W-2-Metre-12V-80W/301791134659?hash=item46442743c3:m:mGHPzvwlhM7CHoqdB-f7pig

Wrap around coolant return pipe inside tunnel nearest engine. When turned on, heated water will flow to engine via heater matrix.
Spiral wind around the return pipe. Perhaps more than 2 metres will fit.

[mottofreee]

I want to make a system that allows the car to start in the same conditions as the summer.
Doing a fire under the car help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VB2LaHc5JCY (demo)

[tolsen]

Primus is much simpler and more reliable. My model is same as Amundsen & Scott’s. You can cook dogs same time as preheating engine.

[mottofreee]

Yes.
One Slimline, placed in the oil pan on the bottom.
Dimensions: 100x160x3.2mm (4"x 6" x 1/8" )

[tolsen]

Building your own heating element?

[mottofreee]

I received the kanthal wire.
Now buy the rest of the materials.

[tolsen]

No need to jump through certification hoops when fitting a Webasto water heater. Still important to do it right ensuring the Smart does not catch fire.
I found one heater this morning but the garage wants £100 for the kit. Too much as I want one for free.
They seem easy to fit and diagnostics interface and software can be sourced from eBay.

[mottofreee]

The antifreeze pre-heating system also has a recirculation pump (+/- 100 pounds).
Some smart CDI cars have been equipped (optional, factory) with Thermo Top E.
There is also the electric version (superior to the fossil fuel) easier to control - from 1500W. The electrical device is eco and if it uses green energy e 100% eco.
One of Earth's problems is massive pollution; if each person minimizes pollution then the result is visible.
Unfortunately this is not true for me, I do not have access to the power grid.
The energy required for an electric preheater can not be supported by the standard battery.
If you are purchasing a Webasto system, please keep me up to date.
I do not understand, what license for the system? By DVLA or by whom?
Here in Ro, the system should be mounted by an ISCIR-approved firm after which the RAR-approved is RAR (DVLA counterpart). For RAR approval you need to schedule 2 ... 3 months in advance. Costs: 1 business day + "white hair" + ~ 25 pounds + waited hours + miles (~ 50). A real fun and after all possible to come brave firefighters.
Anyway, I must mount Webasto in summer to use winter ...
Electric does not require state approval because it's not a flame, not a fuel, no pressure.

[tolsen]

I will try to acquire a free Webasto heater today. Will simply visit local garages and ask if I can have a working second hand unit out of a wrecked car. Will then get the controls as well.