Project Midlife Crisis

[tolsen]

Best way to improve inlet air flow is to remove any casting flash inside inlet duct, round off sligtly inboard edge of outer central disc on air intake at side and fit a standard 450 diesel paper air filter. Looks same as the petrol’s filter but has larger filtration area.
Important: Measure vacuum in air intake before turbo to check if there indeed is any improvement.

[THEDON]

Looks impressive but I bet no performance improvement only rather noisy and incredibly short life air filter very likely quickly ruining engine.

As for lowering only do that if you want a bone shaker Smart.

It does look impressive and is very, very noisy.
Next step will be a custom remap but there is already performance improvement as the back end of the car is now 7kg lighter.
My concern is more the temperature of the intake air but I am working on this:

[tolsen]

You should reinstate original air iinlet. Also cools your engine control unit. I can’t easily tell from your photo. Looks like you have some rather long air pipes. Won’t that cause quite a turbo lag.

[tolsen]

Why have you cut large holes in your plastic wheel arch liners?


Weight saving? How about accumulation of dust etc above after a few miles of driving?

[THEDON]

Why have you cut large holes in your plastic wheel arch liners?


Weight saving? How about accumulation of dust etc above after a few miles of driving?

I like the way it looks and I saved 122 grams.

[THEDON]

Has anyone tried to replace the electronic boost control system with a simple manual boost controller?

[Thrumbleux]

Don't think it can be made to work as Meg needs to know MAP for fuelling and if the boost goes above safe-mode threshold, Meg shuts down the party.
Remapping is the tried and tested route.

[Mr T]

Looking at your exhaust, the gases come out straight onto your rear tyre & rear plastic wing panel. Those gases are very hot!
I just had the end of my standard exhaust fall off & the only reason I realised was because the rear wing was so hot to touch & when I felt the inside of the rear tyre, I could hardly keep my hand on it.

[THEDON]

Don't think it can be made to work as Meg needs to know MAP for fuelling and if the boost goes above safe-mode threshold, Meg shuts down the party.
Remapping is the tried and tested route.

Too late just did it...will test this week and also go for a remap.

[mottofreee]

Reduction in weight is made and by replacing lead accumulator battery with one supercapacitor (for example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPJao1xLe7w , the idea counts , the realization presented is wrong because it uses flammable materials and the balancing circuits are missing ).
Also, an oil cooler or at least a thermoflot is welcome to increase power.
See the Roadster (Smart 452) https://www.ebay.de/itm/332310438143
Thermoflot = oil / antifreeze heat exchanger. (located near the oil filter)

[mottofreee]

The black pipes are made of plastic and the antifreeze circulates through them. The engine oil circulates through the support.

One option to reach the desired result is to adapt a Roadster (Smart 452) powertrain (engine) to the same powertrain, but it resists to 82HP.
Also the acquisition of the MEG (engine and gearbox calculator) along with motor harness, sensors is needed.
These can be purchased from shop-powertrain complect dismantling.
Adaptation of computers is then done with MB Star or WinStar.