Difficult to start ...

[mottofreee]

Recently I bought a Smart CDI that starts very hard when it is 0 Celsius outside.
Once it starts, it goes well but emits black smoke when you accelerate. I suspect clogged / defective injectors.
I extracted the injectors from the car and 'told' them about ultrasound, EM300 @ 40C solution for 20 minutes. Next week I'll see what I did.
I also consider changing the nozzles if they don't work - I'll look for their number, it must be something at 50+ pounds / piece.
In November 2021 the former owner did a compression test in a service and the results are: 12/10/4. How can a diesel engine work well with 4 compression?

[mottofreee]

Yesterday I opened the injectors and unclogged them. As I suspected, they were clogged ...
Today the site has something that does not allow me to attach the images.

[tolsen]

12/10/4.bar in compression is very low. I would add oil to each cylinder and repeat compression test to identify whether leak is in cylinders or valves.

Regarding injector nozzles, some years ago a bought a set of three from China but have not fitted them yet. Might replace them soon as both engine and transmission is coming out to replace some noisy bearing inside transmission.

[mottofreee]

I drove up the hill with the car, the engine pulls well I guess the hard start is due to clogged / defective injectors. In the case of low compression, the engine is in lack power.
The oil test is only valid for Otto engines, to Diesel engine is too likely to explode due to oil and then goodbye! tool (possibly goodbye! life).
I saw a gearbox with a broken bearing ... it's a bearing but to replace it you have to unscrew the gearbox on the bench - occasion when you change all the bearings there.

[mottofreee]

I mounted the injectors and ... just like that, very difficult start.
I checked :
- spark plugs (by measuring in the connector of their unit)
- spark plug unit - by replacement with a checked one
-injectors -by cleaning
-EGR -by removing from the circuit-the engine works without.
CPS and the sensor on the high pump remained.
The ramp pressure at idle falls within the parameters.

[tolsen]

Cylinder compression 12/10/4.bar is far to low for your engine to start.

[mottofreee]

And I believe the same.
I also suspect that the compression ratio is fictitious.
Something is wrong with this engine, when it starts it emits black smoke until it heats up and knocking and after it heats up it just knock.
Now I suspect a broken rocker arm or a bent / pinched valve ...

[mottofreee]

I changed the engine.
Now new engine it starts easily (normally) but I still haven't managed to make the consumption. MBStar reports normal consumption (5l / 100km). It doesn't emit black or white smoke, the oil level is the same (I have 200 km with it )), it's okay for now. This is not relevant for an engine but let's see what the future holds.
One of the previous users used an unsuitable wrench for the planetary screws so it damaged both of them. Now I'm thinking of how to remove the rounded head screws.
Also how to sync computers.

[tolsen]

Planetary screws? You mean useless Torx?

I have gotten rid of most of my Torx bolts years ago. Reason: When they get rusted up there is nothing that can grip on their heads and only way is to weld suitable nuts to them to get them out.

Why you need to sync controllers? Are yours not a paired set?

[mottofreee]

Yes, the 'erased' / 'rounded' / useless torx - as you want to call it, can no longer be caught with any key.
The solution is to weld the nuts?

I had to replace SAM and the new SAM has another mileage (290kkm vs 135kkm original A1) and another VIN. MBStar doesn't write VIN (says it already exists and doesn't handle it anymore) and the mileage doesn't pick up.
Today a motor support broke (the one next to the exhaust ... the screw in the support was sheared.
Tomorrow I'll try to get the stump out.
I think I bought a box of screws and not a Smart.