Blown bulb advice

[Johnsons_Smart]

All, I have a 2008 fortwo 451 passion.

Over the past 18 months My car has blown about 6 high quality bulbs , I sent the last set back to Osrams technical team for analysis and they said the tests showed that a supply voltage above the standard 13.2V has most likely caused the early failure.

Does anyone know the best way to tackle and fix this issue? Preferably DIY or even advice on a suitable professional who may be able to help (Near London / Essex )

[10:45PM]

I sent the last set back to Osrams technical team for analysis and they said the tests showed that a supply voltage above the standard 13.2V has most likely caused the early failure.

13.2V isn't the 'standard' voltage of a running car anyway.

I'd only really suspect overvolting if they both blow simultaneously, or very close to each other.

Does anyone know the best way to tackle and fix this issue?

Get a multimeter and check the running voltage at the battery terminals ideally ……..., ideally a meter with a 'max' feature where it will record the maximum voltage, but even without this you should be able to get a max reading (take someone with you to monitor the display whilst out on a run).

Report back what you get.

You can also check some other basics like the integrity of battery connections and connections to alternator , earth straps etc… but do this voltage test first.

[Thrumbleux]

the integrity of battery connections …

A poor battery connection will blow bulbs,

but do this voltage test first.

As the man advises.

[tolsen]

Perhaps vibration is the cause? Bulb not fitted right or deformed bulb clips.

[tolsen]

13.2 volt is design voltage for 12 volt car light bulbs. In addition to vibration causing them to fail prematurely, holding them with bare fingers is also bad. Oil from skin makes hot spots causing them to fail early.
I only fit quality bulbs and that is why I always source mine from Lidl. Forget about them nasty Osram bulbs. Invest in proper Lidl bulbs!

[Johnsons_Smart]

got round to picking up a multi-meter & just done a few readings, the numbers are as follows.

12.22 - 12.45 volts CAR TURNED OFF

14.20 - 14.40 volts CAR TURNED ON (ticking over)

14.35 Volts DRIVING OUT ON A RUN (dropped a few times between 9 - 13 volts but stayed at the 14.3 mark pretty constant)

[tolsen]

I can't see anything wrong with those readings you present but recommend you take your car for a proper spin and take voltage readings with and without load.

Have just done so in my old 450 Cdi.

Battery voltage ignition off: 12.5 V.
No load voltage shortly after engine had started and glow plug post heat cycle finished: 14.2 - 14.4 V.
Engine at operating temperature. All consumers turned on (fan at full speed, radio on full blast, lights on): 14.0 V.
Engine at operating temperature. All consumers turned off: 14.1 - 14.2 V.

Readings made with engine running at about 1500 - 2500 rpm and proceeding along narrow country roads.

All readings made by connecting a calibrated Fluke multimeter directly to battery terminals.

[Thrumbleux]

All, I have a 2008 fortwo 451 passion.

Over the past 18 months My car has blown about 6 high quality bulbs , I sent the last set back to Osrams)

Nightbreakers?

[Johnsons_Smart]

Tolsen - thank you for your in depth reply mate. I will do a run and report back what I get.

Thrumbluex - they were nightbreakers.

[Thrumbleux]

Thrumbluex - they were nightbreakers.

AKA lightbreakers.
They don't last five minutes - as you've noticed.
I improved the main on my 450 immeasurably by fitting 100W (H1) main beams (and a relay - for safety). Don't know if that's possible with 451 (450s have separate dipped and main beam bulbs) but if it is and you want improved light output - reliably....

[tolsen]

If they are Osram Night Breaker bulbs, they are indeed doing what they are supposed to do and that is break at night.
You get much better and reliable light by investing in cheap Lidl headlight bulbs.

[bob-in-dav]

It's always a compromise with headlight bulbs - brighter, more powerful, crisper beams don't last as long as others, especially if subjected to vibration - nearside often go first because of drains and nearside potholes etc. I know a lady who gets through 3 sets a year - she works nights and has to use country lanes, including cattle grids going to and from work.
Osram do a bulb called Ultralife which is guaranteed for three years but don't expect them to be as bright as the Nightbreakers.
I do use the Nightbreakers and find that I get about 12 months out of them.

[Mr T]

I fitted Osram Nightbreaker H4 twin filament bulbs to my Mk5 in March 2013 & they are still going strong!

That's jinxed it...lol

[Johnsons_Smart]

UPDATE: I took out the failed night breakers and replaced them with some I bought from Lidl.

Anyway changed the bulbs and went to start the car to check them, Car would not start as if the battery was dead. Thats the Second time a bulb change has done that now.
( I drive the car everyday including an hour before changing them and nothing was left on. Apart from the bulb changes I have never come back to a dead battery.)

5 mins later after failing to dig out and find my jump leads, I decided To try Disconnecting the bulbs and connect them again car started first time.

I connect and put them in properly and securely everytime

Very strange.

Will get round to doing the checks tolsen suggested tomorrow.