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Hi all I am going to try and adjust the clutch actuator, Ive read how to do it but do you do it with the engine hot or cold or is not that sensative?
Thanks in advance
Unkess you like burning your hands - do it cold. Actually, as you are supposed to do an electronic adjustment afterwards, it wouldn't matter much. If you get it wrong either you will get clutch slip or you will get clutch drag - either way you will have to alter it again and do the electronic adjustment again!
That electronic adjustment is not as critical as they say it is. You can get it set up very well just doing it mechanically. Fitting an adjuster screw or having a reference point for measuring will simplify the adjustment.
Thanks for that the clutch is slipping on kick down and the cars done 53000 im being told it should do a lot more then that on a Brabus clutch. Three weeks before I got the car the previous owner had a new actuator fitted by Merc so now 5 months down the line I'm just thinking it may need a bit of setting up now the newness has worn off. Worth a try before I spend £700.
Thanks again
Thanks for that the clutch is slipping on kick down and the cars done 53000 im being told it should do a lot more then that on a Brabus clutch. Three weeks before I got the car the previous owner had a new actuator fitted by Merc so now 5 months down the line I'm just thinking it may need a bit of setting up now the newness has worn off. Worth a try before I spend £700.
Thanks again
Seeing as the current thinking (by people more knowledgeable than me on these matters) is that the Brabus clutch is actually exactly the same as the non-Brabus clutch, then 53,000 miles is excellent wear from it.
Many owners have found their clutches only last 30-40,000 miles. Ours is on it's 3rd clutch at 77,000 miles, though the first clutch was changed prematurely (at 14,000 miles) due to the input shaft seal leak causing oil contamination of the friction plates. Worth checking for this leak on yours also in case that's the reason why it's possibly slipping?
HI all well I have just reset it and took it for a short run and it didn't slip so only time will tell.
What has amazed me is that when I reset it as described in the now to it is now 3mm further back which seems a long way to me could have Merc got it that wrong?
Preload with 50Nm actuate clutch so many times - check still at 50Nm if not readjust repeat - when it holds 50nm then slacken back to 11Nm.
You're right but the load is not in Nm. Load is in N - Newtons for force, not torque. You will see that Sachs got that wrong as well:
German text suitable for Google transator:
Kupplungsaktuator einstellen
Einstellung nur bei kaltem Motor durchführen!
- Kupplungsaktuator lösen (Bild 2).
- Federwaage anbringen. Mit 50 N axial
zur Kupplungswippe belasten und halten (Bild 3).
Befestigungsschrauben anziehen (Bild 4).
Achtung: Anzugsreihenfolge beachten.
Nach richtigem Einstellen sollte kein axiales Spiel
mehr auftreten. Geringe radiale Bewegung mit Reibung ist
möglich.
Fahrzeuge mit Trust Plus:
- Diagnosetester FIND IT anschließen (Bild 1).
Zündung einschalten. Im Hauptmenü ,,Diagnose”
auswählen. Systeme anwählen. Menü MEG - Steuergerät
auswählen. Im Menü Kupplung ,,Kupplung pulsen” auswählen.
Den Anweisungen im FIND IT folgen.
- Zündung ausschalten. Diagnosetesterabziehen.
- Federwaage anbringen. Mit 50 N axial belasten und
halten (Bild 3).
Achtung: Darauf achten daß die Federwaage nicht
entlastet wird. Bei Entlastung Vorgang wiederholen.
- Befestigungsschrauben des Aktuators lösen. Aktuator
auf 11 N entlasten. Befestigungsschrauben anziehen
(Bild 4).
Fahrzeuge ohne Trust Plus:
- Fahrzeug anheben und starten. Räder müssen frei drehen.
Schaltvorgang zwischen 1. und 2. Gang 10 - mal
durchführen. Rückwärtsgang einlegen. Motor abstellen.
- Federwaage anbringen. Mit 50 N axial belasten und halten
(Bild 3).
Achtung: Darauf achten daß die Federwaage nicht entlastet
wird. Bei Entlastung Vorgang wiederholen.
- Befestigungsschrauben des Aktuators lösen. Aktuator auf
11 N entlasten. Befestigungsschrauben anziehen (Bild 4).
Must be expensive to run when clutches wear out that fast.
I agree it's not ideal, but £400 every 40000 miles is only a penny a mile - lost in the noise of things like fuel price changes, and indeed right foot behaviour.
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