Manual Gearbox relearn (without star) ?

[Rodzter]

Is there anyway to do this (relearn is prob the wrong word) manually (i.e without a Star)? As I think* it's the box (not the actuator) that needs to be retaught, as used to goto on N on startup & then after 3-5 secs went to 3 bars, now, after removing actuator & trying various stuff on a star, goes straight to 3 bars on ignition (but still rolls freely forwards & backwards). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Big Performance]

No is the simple answer

[Rodzter]

Does it sound like it may need one (is their an obvious way to tell) as she used to start/run when N came up (for 3-5 secs) before 3 bars, but now she goes straight to 3 bars on ignition, but won't start at all (batt's fine, been there done that). Still appears to roll freely backwards & forwards however.

[Thrumbleux]

goes straight to 3 bars on ignition, but won't start at all .

Mine did that. required STAR treatment...

[Jimmyrinse]

Its not a big job, not costly if you take it to a good indy

[Rodzter]

It doesn't just need a gearchange adaption, as it got three bars with drive (when wet) & then three bars, with nodrive from 5-30 mins max (after lots of gearchanges, i.e fine on long fast motorway journeys) numerous times prior to loosing drive permanently. I just think someone helping out with a star may of accidentally caused the need for a gearchange adaption. Only prob with a gearchange adaption, is that the nearest Indy (who didn't think the 3 bars was an issue) is 75+ miles away, & the cheapest tow will cost £100. So will try changing Gear position sensor next, as will have help from someone with Star again next Tues onwards.

[tolsen]

I offer reteach without mb star for the cost of two pints of good ale.

Check your transmission cables first plus gear position sensor at the end of shift drum. That sensor is prone to failure due to water ingress and corrosion.
There are only 17 cables to check in transmission harness. 55 Watt test lamp with amperage meter is best method. Below table shows what to test and pinouts. First column is ECU pins. Second column what is connected. Third column pin at connection. Fourth column cable colour and note whether cable is thin - thin signal cables are prone to failure. These vehicles would have been much more reliable had Mercedes used heavier gauge cables. M/M means tested by measuring resistance with multimeter - not always conclusive. Fifth column is injection test, i.e. testing cable by passing current using 55 watts test lamp and amperage meter.


PS. All ECU pinout details copied from Evilution but verified on two Smart 450 cars. Connection pinouts acquired from previously mentioned two Smart cars.
Connectors are viewed from below. Not to scale!

[krassegrand]

It feel quite similar to what I had some time ago!

http://smartmaniacs.co.uk/forum/the-cars/roadster/62499-roadster-coupe-gearbox-woes/page2

Jörgen

[Rodzter]

That's super helpful of you Jorgensen, but I think you (indeed anyone) has more experience with electronics than I do! New brake switch, & batt reset haven't worked, although have replacement gear position sensor & gear selector motor is on it's way & should* have her on a Star again next week.

[krassegrand]

Have You checked the wires for rubbing and wear?

Jörgen

[Rodzter]

Yep, previously we've done an in-place visual inspection, & found a tiny nick (didn't even go right through) in the rubber sheathing (of the Clutch Actuator I think) & put some tape over it (when I had 3 bars with drive in wet) which as before I had 3 bars in dry with no drive permanently (as oppose to temporarily before). Done another visual inspection since & without removing sheathing & cables, they look ok. May take another look tomorrow, as my 2 tonne jack has given up jacking my super heavy Roadie to the correct height (for my Axle stands) with weight on it (handy)!