2000 Smart City-Coupe (450) 0.8 CDI gearbox problem

[arnasmic]

Hello,

I have a problem with my gearbox.

Maybe someone had the same problem? Could it be that my clutch worn out and I have to change it? Or maybe I just need a clutch adjustment?
Sometimes it switch the gear and drives. Only on first few gear changes clutch releasing pretty rough. But after few gear changes the car drives perfectly.

[Ocracoke]

I can't see the video I am afraid (it comes up with "This Video is Private"). However, if it is a rough gear change in say 1st and 2nd and then smooths out the higher up the gears you go, I'd guess a fault with the actuator. Lubrication and a reteach would be the way forwards with that one.

[arnasmic]

I've made it public
Nope. When my car let my to drive, when I start to accelerate only few gear changes goes rough. After that, all the gear changing perfectly, and I can drive. But sometimes it get stuck and I can't to put it on drive again...

[Ocracoke]

Hmm... OK. I'd still go down the lubrication/reteach route if only to rule that out. I am not convinced it is the clutch itself that is the issue here... seems to not be sensing it being in gear from the video. I guess the brake lights are showing when you put your foot on the brake to change gear?

[arnasmic]

I have lubricated my clutch actuator. What do you mean about reteaching?
Also I have tried to spray a gear position sensor with a contact cleaner.
Stop lights working good

[Thrumbleux]

Different contacts in the brake pedal switch for lights and transmission.
To eliminate switch as potential culprit.... keep foot away from brake pedal, start engine, put gear lever left (as normal) then forward. If first gear selects and car drives then possibly brake switch.If it is faulty, problem will return after using footbrake.
Doubt that it is the problem as you are getting gears showing on the dash.

[arnasmic]

I've got more videos for you guys

I have filmed my clutch actuator. And it seems that it doesn't go as deep as it should (check the last video, when I could switch on the engine. In the last video clutch actuator arm went much deeper):

After a few shooted videos my clutch actuator stuck completely:

And after that, 3 bars error show up on a dash:

Then I pushed the car further and the gearbox unstuck. Then I switched the engine on, and it let me switch the gear. But clutch releasing was really rough, which I didn't filmed because I was under the car. But look at the clutch actuator arm. It gone much deeper, comparing with other videos:

[Mr T]

It looks like your clutch actuator needs cleaning & lubricating.
Have a look here http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides...-slow-actuator or http://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php...engine&mod=533

[Thrumbleux]

It's looking like some fault inside the clutch bellhousing. I'd begin by looking at the end of the release fork where the actuator bears against it. The actuator rod wearing and punching a hole through it is not uncommon.

[Mr T]

Agreed, It is one end or the other of the clutch actuator mechanism that needs further exploration.

[tolsen]

I also think actuator rod has punched through release fork.
Easy enough to sort out and not an expensive part.

I have added a video of mine in case you wish to see how a good working clutch actuator is supposed to work.
https://youtu.be/7GOEnycT488

[tolsen]

Punched through clutch release fork info:

http://smartmaniacs.co.uk/forum/the-...gh-clutch-fork

[arnasmic]

Thank you very much for all the replys and video!!! I really appreciate that! Today I have removed and lubricated my clutch actuator. But, when I was taking it of, it was stuck in wrong position. So actuator rod is exanded now. Do you have any idea, how can I release it? Because I can't put it back to place when it is expanded...
WP_20170517_21_38_12_Pro.jpg

I've also checked my realease fork, It doesn't have a hole in it. WP_20170517_20_55_45_Pro.jpg

[BBE]

If you remove the electric motor, then you should be able to
push the plunger back to its retracted position.
Bjorn

[tolsen]

Drive it back using diagnostics or by hot wiring.