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Rust removal - will there be anything left?

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  • #16
    Tried that but found the Lidl pool we have is too small and winter is wrong time to source one that is larger.

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    • #17
      Inflatable pool is dangerous.
      Perforate easily and becomes very expensive - removes stains from electrolyte with demolition hammer .
      1-Capturaţi ecranul complet 12.02.2015 084323.jpg
      Attached Files

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      • #18
        I used hammer and chisel, needle gun and rotary wire brushes when cleaning up front axle. Took lots of elbow grease and several visits to optician and eye clinic. Rust removal by electrolysis is the way to go. One can enjoy pints of ale in the pub or a cup of tea with the rabbi whilst the rust removal process proceeds.

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        • #19
          Stains on walls / floor room where the pool is located.
          Small parts with simple geometry (eg rims) to clean easiest blasting .
          TK, you have tried using chemical processes?
          Years ago, clean tanks motorcycle through the following process:
          - Introduction to the tank empty and dry, warm water + detergent for clothes ('dero' 1-Capturaţi ecranul complet 12.02.2015 113331.jpg ) + a chain ( 1-Capturaţi ecranul complet 12.02.2015 113020.jpg ) ;
          - Shake the tank for 5 minutes ;
          - Drained and refilled with clean water + detergent;
          - Repeat until the water leak was clean.
          Now, the technology does not allow it (for tanks) but can be used for small items.
          Attached Files

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          • #20
            Took delivery of two proper tanks that regrettably were not quite suitable. One is pallet sized so both subframe and rear axle could fit horisontally but the tank is full of sticky styrene residue requiring tons of Lidl elbow grease to get it cleaned out. The other tank is an old water storage tank and far too large for my rust removal project. Both might become handy one day if the Ythan raft race ever gets reinstated.

            To get my project moving I simply made a DIY tank to measure out of scrap wood and lined it with Lidl polythene sheeting.

            Engine subframe brewing.

            Engine subframe after treatment and pressure washing. The brown colour is just rust forming when bare metal is exposed to air. Comes off easily with a wire brush.


            Left forward bottom corner of engine subframe.



            Left half of rear axle being treated.

            Note the industrial size battery charger. Amps when starting up is typically 15 A and drops to around 5 A after a few hours. DIY chargers might burn out so I think it is important to keep an eye on the amps. Amps can be reduced by mixing a weaker solution or by using a smaller anode.
            My electrolyte is Evilution strength - one teaspoon per litre which I have estimated as 500 grams per 100 litres.




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            • #21
              And inside rusting occurs.
              Detergent (with the addition of phosphates) and chain or repeating on the entire surface electrolysis?
              Immediately after drying, must be primer coating (interior / exterior) !
              Without priming the, electrolysis is nonsense.

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              • #22
                Mechanical cleaning is next step. I won't be applying any primer. Two coats of 2 pack epoxy followed by two coats of Body Schultz will suffice. Inaccessible internals will be coated in my own secret concoction. Ideally I should have gone for hot dip galvanising.

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                • #23
                  Sand blasting or shot blasting?
                  Hot dip galvanizing is inappropriate here.

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                  • #24
                    Assorted rotary wire wheels of the twist knot type. Have a sand basting box but these parts won't fit.

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                    • #25
                      How to use rotary brush on the inside?

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                      • #26
                        Greetings All, have just done similar to the rear sub frames from my Cabrio Fortwo, the one that's having a Roady transplant engine. Five items, the two subframes, two frames that hold the rear under belly panel and the one that supports the center join of the cross bars. All up one hour to deliver and collect from the process plant and a donation of 350 quid for the job done. Now I have the five items guaranteed for life?, they've been blasted, galv sprayed and waxed, on the inside. Now the problem of remembering how it all goes back together? Just as well I've got a second one to compare to? Not that I'm greedy, just that I have a fetish for these things. Cheers.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by mottofreee View Post
                          How to use rotary brush on the inside?
                          Might have to train a few ferrets in the art of sandblasting.

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                          • #28
                            Ferrets? Ferrets no ! too high but maybe this:
                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMbBFFJ0P8Q

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                            • #29
                              I have a special high pressure water blaster hose from Lidl that cleans the internals. It is primarily intended for cleaning and unblocking sewers but was super efficient in cleaning out internals of my subframe and rear axle.

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                              • #30
                                Glue some abrasive media to your ferret's fur and then send them in!

                                Once you have used the electrolysis to remove the major rust patches, you could do a clean and scrub - then do another session in the electrolysis bath to male sure you have removed all the rust even the stuff in seams if there is a path to the outside world that allowed it to start in the first place. Another clean and scrub then the next hard parts drying.

                                There are some Hydrophobic chemicals that would remove the water, but then you have to get rid of the chemicals before painting......

                                How about building a suitable box into which you place the subframe and have a heater, and a couple of desiccant packets, ex Lidil's of course to absorb all the water? Then you need to dip the sub frame in paint - I doubt just spraying is ever going to be as efficient at getting in to all the crevices inside subframe etc.

                                John

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