2 cylinder Suprex - warning sign?

[tolsen]

I am surprised engine starts if nil compression on cylinder 1. Reason: Engine synchronises on cylinder 1 by detecting changes in angular acceleration. Nil compression in cylinder 1 should cause engine not to synchronise and no start.
Where is your cylinder 1? Nearest to transmission or at belt drive end?

[Thrumbleux]

Cyl # 1 at belt end - and it was a sod to start.

[Thrumbleux]

Getting ready to drop the engine and box after clearing K-bar out of the way and removing driveshafts etc. My question is - where is best to disconnect the various sensors and actuators, especially the transmission ones?
The engine ones I was just going to disconnect where the wires meet the components but the gear selection motor (and to a lesser degree, the gear position indicator) look like being a sod to get to. Is there a connector further up the loom? Ditto the engine sensors, starter, and alternator?
My plan is to drop the subframe four inches to get at from above the more awkward stuff (eg coolant hoses) then drop the motor and box with the subframe still at half mast or remounted to shell. The airbox and ECU will be staying in the car. Any advice?

No horrors found today - other than a broken stud on the exhaust manifold to head junction. Manifold will be coming off after all then...

[10:45PM]

Details here re the loom connections - and lots more
http://fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides/for...ne-replacement

[Thrumbleux]

Cheers Quarter To but.... that method takes MEG with it and my proposed method leaves MEG sitting on the subframe. Unless one of the MEG connectors is dedicated to drivetrain only (ie nothing to/from it to chassis - eg lateral G sensor) then I'll have to disconnect everything one by one. No big deal for the engine but the gear selection motor I'm a bit short of height to get under to access and from the side even with the inner arch removed, it's a cramped black hole in there. Need to figure inlet manifold removal also (though I think the FQ101 'engine rebuild how-to' covers that).
Snow forecast here for soon so I just want the motor out ASAP before it arrives and I can work with a roof over my head. (So tempted to go and get a Fiat 500 on a £75/month PCP deal. Hopefully that notion passes quickly. Must keep busy. Must keep busy....)

[bob-in-dav]

I've never dropped or lowered the subframe to change an engine/gearbox.

Unplug all the engine connectors (and the earth wire bolted to one of the the coils) and fold the whole loom over to the left.

Unplugging the gearbox connectors is easy enough apart from one which has a latch that requires lifting to open as opposed to squeezing.

Unbolt engine mount from cylinder head and lower the engine on a jack to gain access to remove the inlet manifold, thermostat, main battery feed to starter and alternator, solenoid, knock sensor and hose from front of car.

I find the most awkward part of the whole process is removing the intercooler duct (and refitting it) one reason perhaps to lower the subframe!

[tolsen]

I lifted my Smart sufficiently high so I could lower the whole subframe and wheel it out. Saves you having to remove axles etc. Takes less than an hour.

[10:45PM]

Gives you a chance to clean up and rust proof the otherwise hard to reach surfaces too.....

[bob-in-dav]

I lifted my Smart sufficiently high so I could lower the whole subframe and wheel it out. Saves you having to remove axles etc. Takes less than an hour.

But also requires the disconnection of hand brake, hydraulic brake line, air con hoses (if fitted), radiator hoses, battery lead, the very awkward yaw sensor wire.

[tolsen]

No need to disconnect hand brake cables. Just make sure hand brake lever is in down position. Can't remember touching yaw sensor. Yes, brake lines must be disconnected, ABS cables too. Does not take long. It pays to keep brake pedal depressed with a wooden stick or something to ensure brake fluid does not leak out requiring extensive brake bleeding. Aircon compressor need be disconnected from engine to avoid having to evacuate aircon system. Easy provided one is sufficiently smart.

[Thrumbleux]

I am surprised engine starts if nil compression on cylinder 1. Reason: Engine synchronises on cylinder 1 by detecting changes in angular acceleration. Nil compression in cylinder 1 should cause engine not to synchronise and no start.
Where is your cylinder 1? Nearest to transmission or at belt drive end?

Perhaps it is only the CDI that does that and the petrol has a different strategy.
When checking for spark initially with all top plugs removed (zero compression) and engine still hot, there was plenty spark.

[Thrumbleux]

I lifted my Smart sufficiently high so I could lower the whole subframe and wheel it out. Saves you having to remove axles etc. Takes less than an hour.

No space to store subframe if removed and leaving it lying outside unwise.

[Thrumbleux]

I've never dropped or lowered the subframe to change an engine/gearbox.

Unplug all the engine connectors (and the earth wire bolted to one of the the coils) and fold the whole loom over to the left.

Unplugging the gearbox connectors is easy enough apart from one which has a latch that requires lifting to open as opposed to squeezing.

Unbolt engine mount from cylinder head and lower the engine on a jack to gain access to remove the inlet manifold, thermostat, main battery feed to starter and alternator, solenoid, knock sensor and hose from front of car.

I find the most awkward part of the whole process is removing the intercooler duct (and refitting it) one reason perhaps to lower the subframe!

Cheers BID. I'll tackle it as suggested except for leaving inlet manifold removal until engine is out. I'm hoping partial lowering of subframe will aid access to all the gubbins at the front of the engine. Time will tell....

[tolsen]

No space to store subframe if removed and leaving it lying outside unwise.

Leave car outside and wheel subframe into your cosy hoose.

[Thrumbleux]

Leave car outside and wheel subframe into your cosy hoose.

A fast track to eviction!