2 cylinder Suprex - warning sign?

[tolsen]

Why eviction. I've got loads of car and machine parts in my hoose. No problems so far.

[Thrumbleux]

Why eviction. I've got loads of car and machine parts in my hoose. No problems so far.

Suspect you aint renting....


More faff today - but engine almost ready to drop but for a few more electrical connections - about which I have some questions.
Starter motor: a spade (energiser) and a big black lead that goes to and from the starter. Is that lead the main positive one? (and earthed via motor frame)?
Alternator: I can see one terminal secured with a nut - what else - a plug? More nutted wires?

With subframe at half mast I can see the two downward pointing bolts on the front engine mount but no obvious access to the main cross bolt. If I disconnect those two bolts - how easy/difficult is it come refitting the engine to line everything up such that the bolts are relatively easy to install?

One last question (for now!). Can I remove the head (engine still in car) without first removing cam chain cover? (Reason for asking is if pending snow hampers removal of engine, I could at least get the head of and be working on it and remove the cam chain cover once I finally get the engine out and am doing the rings).

Thanks for all the help so far.

[Thrumbleux]

I've never dropped or lowered the subframe to change an engine/gearbox.

Unplug all the engine connectors (and the earth wire bolted to one of the the coils) and fold the whole loom over to the left.

Unplugging the gearbox connectors is easy enough apart from one which has a latch that requires lifting to open as opposed to squeezing.

Unbolt engine mount from cylinder head and lower the engine on a jack to gain access to remove the inlet manifold, thermostat, main battery feed to starter and alternator, solenoid, knock sensor and hose from front of car.

I find the most awkward part of the whole process is removing the intercooler duct (and refitting it) one reason perhaps to lower the subframe!

If it's of use to you BID - I can snap some photos of the car with the subframe half lowered (spacers over bolts) to give you an idea of how access to the items you mention is improved.

[Thrumbleux]

Very quick update. Engine is now out of the car and removal of cam cover reveals no rocker/follower damage - relief!
Disconnecting all the electrical connectors a major PITA. However, all the drivetrain wiring goes to either the ECU or a connector that sits on top of the subframe. Thus all connections can be made with the engine out then above connections made on refitting engine to car - with the best chance of getting correct wiring runs and securement. That's how I intend to refit it.

[10:45PM]

1e0e9c.jpg...

[Thrumbleux]

Errrrr, no!

[Thrumbleux]

Head is now off. What do you guys use in the way of a valve spring compressor?

edit PS.

Are Suprex springs soft enough for this method? >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhO6TLaMaOk

[10:45PM]

Unless you've got weakling arms you should easily be able to remove collets like that

Here's another tricky method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es6raocApZQ

[Buckster]

You can get a basic valve spring compressor for under £20

[tolsen]

Lisle 36050.

[Buckster]

Lisle is for OHV.

[tolsen]

Lisle is for OHV.

Perhaps yours is a side valve engine?

[Thrumbleux]

I have removed the valves from cyl #1 (16mm long reach socket, magnet, hammer - I'll figure refitting later) and got the pistons out. Exhaust valve is as expected, burned to hell and the oil control rings are stuck tighter than a shark's arse at 1000 fathoms.
. I've stripped as per FQ101 guide, http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides...engine-rebuild ie with gearbox still attached (but out of car). With the crank still in the upper block - can the bearing shells be slid in? Has anyone done this? Does anyone know if the oil seal in the cam chain cover (that seals the front pulley) is available from MB/smart?

[bob-in-dav]

I have removed the valves from cyl #1 (16mm long reach socket, magnet, hammer - I'll figure refitting later) and got the pistons out. Exhaust valve is as expected, burned to hell and the oil control rings are stuck tighter than a shark's arse at 1000 fathoms.
. I've stripped as per FQ101 guide, http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides...engine-rebuild ie with gearbox still attached (but out of car). With the crank still in the upper block - can the bearing shells be slid in? Has anyone done this? Does anyone know if the oil seal in the cam chain cover (that seals the front pulley) is available from MB/smart?

I know it's not best practice, but have always found that the main bearing shells that you're asking about have always been in really good condition and a couple of times have only replaced the ones below that do all the work. Using genuine Smart ones as opposed to aftermark for some assurance of complete compatibilty - never had any problems doing this.
If the seal you're asking about is the one pressed into the timing cover for the crank pulley, they are easy enough to get hold of but again I've never found the need to change one. Using the correct spec oil has the appropriate additives to keep this supple and if you look at the design the light internal pressure within the crankcase seems to keep this running nicely. Take care if you do set about changing it as that timing chain cover is very delicate and expensive to replace!

[Thrumbleux]

Thanks.



...

[tolsen]

You can inspect seal once cover is off. No need to replace unless leaking or worn.

[Thrumbleux]

Thanks.

...

[Thrumbleux]

Thanks BID. I knew there was one previously mentioned and highly rated. I'll get hold of some.
I already have a rubber sump gasket from Evil which I'm expecting/hoping to re-use (unless I'm told it's a one use item) as it hasn't been on long and was well greased when fitted so should come off in one piece. Is the cam box gasket available from MB/smart dealer? Or is the existing one to be reused (I think mine is shot though) or is sealant the way to go?

Is this >> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRKO-ELRI...25.m3641.l6368 the Dirko stuff I need? Will 70ml do the lower block to main block and the cam chain cover?