***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

[MINTY]

********* SOLVED THANK YOU :x ************

Please help

Removed my clutch actuator to clean it out following evilution's guide.

(Wish I'd found the way to do it on fq101 without removing the actuator first!!!)

Now I can't get the actuator arm back in far enough to fit the actuator back to the car.

Are there any techniques to this?

The ball has clicked into the socket fully.

Please help. car is jacked up and going nowhere and I need to go out ASAP. (Read half an hour ago!) :redface::frown:

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

[putzie]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

have never taken one apart minty as i have had no problems so far ( grabs some wood for safety) but will send you a pm!

[MINTY]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

cheers putz.

[RichG]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

Whatever you do, don't try to take it apart! The case is riveted together and is under sprung pressure. It could cause serious injury if you try to remove the cover.

Phil, you have mail

[RacingSnake]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

Phil, not sure I understand?
so have you mounted the actuator back onto the gearbox? and now the actuator pin doesn't reach forward and touch the release arm in the gearbox? is that right?

[RichG]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

Sounds more like the arm is so far out that the bolts cannot be re-secured to the gearbox to me.

[MINTY]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

Thanks to all, been speaking to 2minits on phone as well.

The ball is located in the socket but the arm is still 3" out of the actuator itself.

If you look at the photos you'll see that the tapered bit is only just inside the actuator.

It looks like it should be another inch further in based on when the brackets line up on my car against the actuator. /

I've taken the motor back off to see if that helps me push the rod in further but I'm pushing against the force of the very strong spring, ie stronger than me!

[MINTY]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

************************
* solved *****************

thanks to all couldn't cope without you

big kisses to shawn 2 minits for his help over the phone and for putzie for giving me his number

and of course to everyone else for offering suggestions



********************************

off out now to fix it to car before it gets dark!!!!

:d

[putzie]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

cool shawn will see you later for that big hug and kiss lmao, personally i will go with out !!!!!
sorry i am having a heart attack laughing !!!!!!

[BBE]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

Sounds like you removed the actuator while it was in the extended position (ignition on position). It should have been removed in the retracted (or power off) position.
To move from the extended to the retracted position, the actuator relys on two forces; the power of the electric motor and the back pressure of the clutch springs. Neither of the two can do it alone.
What I suggest to do is to simulate the clutch spring force by hand ie:
Connect the electrical plug, then press the plunger hard against something, and while applying this pressure, switch ignition on (nothing happens as the actuator is already extended), then switch ignition off.
When switching off, the plunger should move back in providing you are applying enough manual pressure.
Bjorn

[Evilution]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

Unless you remove the actuator it's barely worth doing. Firstly the crud can't run out properly so usually it is just moved around the actuator, secondly you can get lube splashing back into the clutch side of the hole and you don't want that to happen.

[RacingSnake]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

not really.
there won't be much if ANY crud in there at all unless you've run without a seal on the end of the actuator.
So leaving it in situ works perfectly well.

[forsmart]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

If you remove the motor (2 torx screws prise it out) and put the whole thing in the vice and gently compress it back in, it'll stay in at the fully-in position, then refit motor. That's what i did when i made that mistake a fair while back. It worked for me. However If it was in the extended position when you removed the motor - I'm not sure how it measures the position as i've never had one apart and wasn't taught about it when at merc. Hmm.

However I did that when i was looking for a defect on the teeth (i used a screwdriver to move the quadrant and "bang!") so when i pushed it back in the motor hadnt moved.

I would agree with evilution about having to remove the actuator to do it properly, as if you clean it out first prior to lube, you need to be able to let the crud leave the actuator by turning it so it can run out whilst cleaning it. Otherwise you may just wash something offensive into the gear teeth causing rapid wear (the quadrant is only plastic!)

***
My actuator (had done nearly 90,000miles though) was containing crud - it was relatively dry inside, except a few clumps of what can only be fine bits of plastic from the quadrant teeth - presumably stuck together with dried up grease. The seal wasn't particularly watertight i wouldnt say - not the tightest fitting. It improved changes for a fair while after cleaning and lubing, but it eventually let me down (at around 105k) not a bad mileage i guess!

[RacingSnake]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

I still fail to see how you'd get crud in the actuator unless you've done something wrong.
I've taken apart the actuator off a 60,000 mile car and aside from the grease, it was perfect in there.
If you're using oil in there which is thin enough to 'run out' then it sounds to me like you're using the wrong stuff anyway! lol

[Evilution]

Re: ***URGENT*** Clutch actuator help please!!!

As Forsmart said, the bellow seal isn't that tight a fit and the exposed position allows it to pick up all sort of rubbish over time.
Some of the crud inside is detritus from the plastic quadrant. White grease takes a little time to thicken up, if it didn't run out at first it wouldn't flush out the crud.