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After hours of studying WIS and associating the drawings so far provided I took the plunge today on my day off to complete the DRL project, and pleased to say...... it works
I have used the micro spot lamps from Ring as the DRL's but I am going to swap out the H2 spots for H2 LEDs as I want to keep the current load down.
The hardest part was actually deciding what live feed wire to tap off, cos I wanted live with ignition on and dead with ingition off. After pulling the zee unit down I couldn't access a suitable wire, so I ended up tapping off the wiper motor live feed and installing an inline 10amp fuse for safety (I might drop this further to 5amp when I install the LED's).
Now the DRL's come on when the ignition is on and they turn off when I turn on the side lights, just how I wanted.
P.S. all joints are soldered not the rubbishy crimp or scotchlock jobbies.
If it all goes ok at final installation then I shall post the wiring schematics as it seemed pretty simple once Trouble helped me out understanding what doides and relays do.
Well I installed the lights today between rain showers, I have yet to wire up. I'm going to study my MB technical database to pick up the correct wires especially for the ignition on live feed and work out my wiring routes, the rest should be obvious as I will have access to them when the front is off.
Also as a precaution I am going to install an line fuse on the live side. Hopefully all planned for next weekend, and by then I should also be in reciept of some H2 LED replacement bulbs as I want to convert what is currently micro spot lights to DRL's and keep the current draw down as they will be on most of the time.
I've completely missed chippyminterns post and attachment.
The diode is def. in the wrong place in your picture.
As said spin it round and stick it across the coil (to have it 'pointing' at the supply
As Mr T says, you've also got the wrong sort of relay .... it's a NO (normally open) , I was using a changeover NC (normally closed) type in my example
Normally closed With no power to the coil, as shown/assumed in my pic, these contacts are connected, when power is applied that connection breaks and the connection is then made to the other terminal (The lower one in my circuit)
You make whatever circuit you want from that.
You don't need to use an automotive relay, any 12V DC one will do.. Maplins etc should have one for you (single or double pole changeover type)
Sorry BBE , thought you were referring to my pic and not chippys
I have yet to try out the wiring diagram but I now have all of the bits. From the understanding of your drawing (and my lack of technical knowledge) I have a standard 12v 4 pin switching relay with integral 30a fuse.
I have studied your diagram and have assumed the following:
[ATTACH]2813[/ATTACH]
Does this look right? or am I completely barking up the wrong tree? Weather permitting I am probably going to do the job on Thursday.
Cheers
Derek
From your drawing the DRL's will only be on if you've got your sidelights on. Is this what your trying do achieve? If not, you need to use a relay with a normally closed contact, which will open when you switch the side lights on therefore turning the DRL's off. :goodlk:
Ditch the diode, it does not belong in that place.
Of course it does.....
Unless as suggested the relay already has one fitted as an extra by the manufacturer.
It suppresses the reverse EMF which is generated across the coil when the coil is switched in and out. This EMF can damage other items on the same circuit.!!!
A diode normally goes in paralell to the relay coil (between 85 and 86) as a spike supressor, but again not strictly needed.
It IS across the coil in my circuit !!!
If you add it to this place, then you need to turn it around so that the catode is towards pin 86 in your case.
Bjorn
Cathode points to the + supply side, again, as in my circuit !!
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